Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Mais, avant que je rentre...

But, Before I Leave...

I am afraid that this might be my last entry before I go. I have a week left. A week. A week!! I don't even know what to do with that thought. I facilitated my workshop for the last time yesterday at UC Kin, didn't have a nap in the afternoon, and stayed up all the way until ten. By all standards since I've arrived here, I should have been exhausted. But I still only managed to stay asleep until four A.M. because a dream about re-entry into Canada woke me. I finally started to drift back off about 45 minutes later and another dream about re-entry woke me. I gave up on sleep and instead just lay quietly listening to the breathing sounds of the other three women and two-year-old child sleeping in the room with me and tried to imagine what it's going to be like to sleep in a room alone.

I've got to admit that I'm still nervous about coming home. Really. It's silly; I've lived in Winnipeg all my life. It is the most familiar place in the world to me. But I just feel like it's going to look differently. I am trying to grapple with the thought of clean, lit streets at night and strong water pressure. How is it that I've only been here for three months, but those basic amenities are starting to seem somehow unnatural? Hah! Wierd. Perhaps it is again guilt rearing its ugly head, creeping up behind me to remind me that this is not my life and that I am going back to a place where there is no malaria and even if there were, most people would not have to choose between buying mosquito nets or feeding their families. Perhaps guilt is making me disassociate from all of that good stuff. I don't know. But before I go, I want to take inventory of all of the wonderful things about this wonderful country. I want all of the good things to be first and foremost in my mind when I arrive back in 'Peg city.

Sounds
-the sound of men selling bread in big metal tubs on their heads, walking around tapping a knife on the side of the tub
-the sound of walking shoe-shiners clapping wood together
-the sound of walking manicure/pedicurists tapping glass bottles together
-the sound of kids walking around at night when the power's gone off tapping on tin cans; selling palm oil to light lamps
-the sound of women selling fruit on the side of the road letting out a big 'eeh!,' then arguing rapidly in Lingala about the price of fruit or the exchange rates
-the sound of people sweeping out their compounds
-'eaupure! eaupure!'
-'eeeehhh, mondele mbote!'
-the collective 'awwwwwww' from the neighbourhood when the power goes out, and the shouts of joy when it comes back on... every single time
-falling asleep listening to the music drifting down the road from the local pub

Sights
-a million different fabrics in a million different colours... and being able to tell which one just came out
-not one woman wearing shoes that fit her
-rows upon rows of people with oranges, water, apples, bread, and whatever other fruit that's in season in multicoloured plastic tubs on their heads, walking to their spot first thing in the morning
-groups of five to ten guys all leaning up against cars that don't belong to them, all wearing shades, all wearing D&G, Versace, and Prada... all unemployed but so cool
-psychotic taxi drivers pulling across into the middle of intersections covering both lanes of traffic going in either direction and stalling
-papaya trees growing out of the side of massive heaps of garbage and bearing fruit
-the Congo river

Smells
-..... I'll have to get back to you on this one

Sensations
-the feeling that comes along with feeling something very light touch your arm or hand, and then looking down to see a small child looking up at you in wonder and shyly smiling while standing behind her mother
-the feeling that comes along with other small children being terrified of you because they've never seen white people before, and then everyone in the room rolling around on the ground laughing
-the feeling of sitting in the middle of a group of women speaking in a language I don't understand and quietly trying to break manioc leaves off of their stems without getting my hands tapped and shown how I'm doing it wrong (but having no idea what the difference is in the way I'm doing it)
-the feeling of no personal space
-the feeling I get when Pascal's mother greets me or starts clapping upon my arrival

I had an interesting experience tonight. A delegation of ten young people - nine from Canada, seven from Winnipeg, all here on missions - came to dinner. Papa had told me that we were having a group of Canadians in for dinner and I honestly expected them to be middle-aged, not my age. So when the all filed in the door I was surprised, and had no idea that they were from my city. Ma ville! We talked, but not about Canada. We talked about Congo, about various cultural and other types of experiences we've had since we've arrived. I believe that all but one of them had ever been here before; Paul said that he got the Congo bug a few years back and has been back every year since. I know the feeling and I haven't even left yet. Many ex-pats have mentioned this to me; something about this country that gets in your blood and draws you back no matter how far you go or how long you're gone. Hello, my dear aunt was gone for 30 years and has returned home now en permanence. So we all sat out in a big circle in the courtyard after dinner and talked about Kinshasa. We had a lively discussion about mondeles. It was great. Papa, Paul, and I all laughed. The rest of them giggled nervously and all looked uncomfortable with the whole ordeal. I felt like an insider looking out, or an outsider looking in... at how I felt when I first arrived when I heard that word and every time I went out and attracted so much attention. I didn't even realize that I don't even realize anymore whether or not I am attracting attention with my skin or that the word mondele doesn't bother me anymore. In fact, I have begun correcting people when they mistake me for Chinese. They'll say 'neehaw!' and I'll say 'te, te, pas chinois. Mondele.' When they all filed out at the end of the evening and we walked them up the street a bit, I got a wonderful and bizarre feeling. I felt this huge sense of relief that I was not with them; that I was staying here in my home in Binza. Their visit this evening made me feel closer to my family.

I had another emotional event last week. The day that John and Charity left I was a mess. Their leaving really brought it home to me that I, too, would be leaving all too shortly (interesting choice of words I've made...). I cried. Then Maman Therese started crying. Then Claudia started crying. We were all standing in the girls' room with one arm around each other crying. It must have looked ridiculous :) That thought occurred to me right in the middle of our orchestra but it didn't make it any easier. I have begun my goodbyes and until-next-times.

I have to start saying that.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Comment faciliter un seminaire de resolution de conflit au Congo... ou Quoi eviter en facilitant!

How to Facilitate a Conflict Resolution Workshop in Congo... or What to Avoid When Facilitating!

The Workshop
In 2008, my dear friend Jessie Robinson and I wrote a conflict resolution workshop as a final project in a course facilitated by Karen Ridd at the University of Winnipeg called Violence and Nonviolence. We were interested in writing a workshop that addressed specific needs of women who had experienced domestic violence at the hands of men in their lives; neither of us, as undergraduate students, had any expertise in trauma healing as such. Therefore, at Karen's advice and encouragement, we tailored our workshop to deal specifically with issues of the loss of power that women may feel as victims, and how they might be empowered once again. We facilitated the workshop in June of 2008 at Outreach, the Fort Garry Women’s Resource Centre’s satellite location, for six women and found that we had a great deal of success in offering the skills and tools that we did.

The day before I left for Congo, on a whim, I packed my facilitator’s manual. After being read by a few different people, I was asked to facilitate our workshop at a school in Sanga Mamba in Kinshasa for a group of young girls who are in the process of learning to become seamstresses. Additionally, I was asked to facilitate for their teachers during a separate session. My facilitations were arranged through Pasteur Ya Namwisi Mukambo, who is a member of the administrative board of the school.

The Students

With the group of girls, I was able to follow my facilitator’s manual relatively closely. Oh wait, did I mention that there were fifty-five girls participating?? Yes, that's right. 55. Actually, we did several head counts throughout the morning. We started with 37, and did another count twenty minutes later and had 46. 45 miutes later, I asked that we count again, and the result was 63 participants. I had to put my foot down. I really didn't want to deny anyone the opportunity to participate, but really. I'm just a kid from Winnipeg who wrote a workshop. Did I mention that I had only facilitated once before, with a partner and six participants? Right. So I cut them off at 55. I started by attempting to do an icebreaker with them. The girls did, at first, have some difficulty understanding the instructions. When I attempted to move around the circle one by one, giving each participant a chance to play the game, the girls on either side of me feigned ignorance and claimed that they did not understand French (even after it had been explained to them in Lingala). There were however, enough participants who were bold enough to give the game a try. I ended up proceeding by letting them call out as they built up the courage to participate instead of going around the circle in order; with 55 participants in total, we ended up with enough bold participants to have some fun in the end. It wasn’t until about an hour after we had begun the session that morning that I realized that because the students are taught in rote, the concept of participatory learning must be unfamiliar to them. It would not make for a positive experience for any of them if I were to force each one to participate. Therefore, I carried out the rest of the workshop’s activities in the same manner as the first icebreaker in order to gently introduce this new concept.

After the first icebreaker, I did two brainstorming activities with the girls. The first brainstorm was in setting guidelines of behaviour on the rest of our time together that day, and the second was in identifying both negative and positive aspects of conflict. Upon reflection, I realize now that the brainstorm sessions themselves would have been put to much better use as icebreakers, as they slowly opened the participants’ minds to the idea that they could be free to speak their minds and that they already possessed valid knowledge.

After going over the five conflict styles with them – accommodation; avoidance; compromise; collaboration; and competition – I organized them into groups and asked them to come up with a two or three minute skit that exemplified a conflict and that made use of one or more of the five conflict styles in its resolution. This role play activity was by far the greatest success of the day. Whereas when Jessie and I facilitated our workshop for the women in Winnipeg and decided halfway through the morning not to include the role plays, here in Congo the opportunity for theatrics and drama was perfectly culturally appropriate. They were fantastic! The girls got right into them, and all wanted to be the first group to present. We ended up drawing numbers from a jar. During each one, the whole audience also got involved; clapping and calling out to the 'actors' in response to occurrences in the skit. Their skits also gave me some invaluable insight into the types of conflicts that are common and most pressing in their lives. Very interestingly, three out of five groups presented skits that addressed common conflicts regarding cell phones. When I first arrived in Kinshasa and was given a cell phone to use during my stay here, I was warned against leaving it unattended anywhere or carrying it in a place that could be easily accessible to a pickpocket because it would be sure to go missing. Not only is theft a major issue, but so is cell phone credit; there are no land lines in Congo, and all plans work on a pay-as-you-go basis. I have tried to restrict the number of people that I’ve given my phone number out to, but still I get text messages and quick phone calls on a regular basis from people who have somehow come across my phone number and are asking me to recharge the credits on their phones (the assumption being that I, as a Westerner, have plenty of money to share). In fact, as I was writing just five minutes ago I got a phone call from one of the student participants in this workshop asking me to recharge her phone. Wireless communication can be a major issue of contention in many contexts here in Congo, and it can cause major rifts in relationships. The other two groups presented different issues. One group’s conflict was between a husband, his wife, and his mistress; he was treating his mistress better than his wife.

After the skits, we took a lunch break to snack on bread, roasted peanuts, and pop, and continued on after approximately a half hour. Although I did continue with the second and third sections of the workshop, I read through them quickly and left out all but one activity. The reasons for which I decided to leave out the parts I did are as follow:

First, the girls were getting restless. Even after taking a break and having something to eat, they had still begun itching to leave because each day of school here in Congo (and in much of Africa) only lasts for half a day. Second, after having spent the morning with them, upon reflection I had realized that because they do not live in an egalitarian culture and society, many of the issues concerning women’s empowerment that are addressed in the workshop do not transfer culturally. Further, I became mindful of the fact that I could potentially do more harm than good if I were to try to convince the young girls that they could independently control their decisions and their lives; an individualistic world view that does not exist as such here in Congo. Decisions need to be considered in terms of the ripple effects that they can have on various family and social groups. There are issues of face-saving and collective conflict resolution processes among parties to conflict that involve intermediaries that the material concerning empowerment in my workshop does not address. Because I have not done an adequate amount of research into this aspect of Congolese culture, I decided to dilute the empowerment messages in the latter part of the workshop. After outlining the seven-step conflict resolution process in the workshop for the participants, I finished with a simple empowerment activity whereby I asked the girls to finish the following phrase: “I feel powerful when…” I saw positive results with this activity and noticed several of the girls smiling and clapping for one another.

What worked and what was challenging
To my surprise the girls did incorporate the conflict styles into their skits. I was concerned that they might have difficulty with conceptualizing the application of the new information in a learning environment that was so different from what they are familiar with, but this was not the case. They did a great job of exemplifying the uses of the styles in conflict and moreover of incorporating them into their own contexts. This has given me a strong indication that there are aspects of conflict and how conflict is experienced that are universal.

However, not all of the workshop’s material proved to be universal. The participatory learning facilitation methods didn’t carry over to a rote education setting very smoothly. In fact, I don’t believe that the role of a facilitator as I understand it – as a person who fosters critical thinking and participants’ abilities to come to their own conclusions – is a role that these girls, at their age and level of experience with this type of workshop, are familiar with. By the end of the day, they had come around and seemed more comfortable with actively participating, but it was incredibly slow going during the first few hours. Further, the concept of women’s empowerment that I attempted to offer them did not transfer culturally. This message was shaped in my Western, egalitarian society. Here in Congo, I do not find an egalitarian society. I find a culturally embedded hierarchy of power in both social and familial roles. Both socioeconomic and political systems in Congo reproduce and reinforce this hierarchy. I had sensed, by the middle of my facilitation, that to push the empowerment message without a way to make it meaningful or relevant here in Congo could mean that the conflict resolution skills and material that we had spent the entire morning working on might end up being rendered obsolete to them. Therefore, I read quickly through the sections on power and only facilitated the empowerment activity with them at the end of the workshop.

Did I mention that there were 55 participants? I found that a little challenging.

The Teachers
With the teachers, our workshop was transformed in a way that it dealt only with styles of behaviour and communication in conflict. When I arrived in the morning, I had a moment of panic when I found that 28 out of 30 participants were men. It was not their gender in and of itself that made me panic – although I must admit that this, too, intimidated me – but it was the fact that I was about to facilitate a conflict resolution workshop written for women who’d experienced violence at the hands of men for men. I had to ask myself why I hadn’t thought of this before I agreed to do the session for the teachers. I should have known that it would be almost exclusively, if not entirely, men; I have experienced time and again since I arrived being the only woman in countless professional and/or academic settings. My session with the teachers was much shorter than that with the students. I only presented the first section of the workshop, covering just up to the final role play after having introduced the five conflict styles, and ended our session together right after the role plays had been discussed.

What worked and what was challenging
The brainstorming and the role play activity went over quite well. The teachers were much more active participants, which made my role as facilitator much easier when it came to generating and encouraging discussion in a language that I am still working at ameliorating. However, I did not touch on a key aspect of the workshop at all. Men do not experience power in the same way as women do. I was presenting this material in a hierarchical culture in which, contemporarily, men occupy the majority of the upper rungs of this order – which, I must add, is not to state that all men abuse their more powerful status. Because, in addition to their inherent power as men they also hold positions of authority as teachers, to give a workshop on conflict and power to this particular group would have entailed entirely different material. As I have not done research in depth into how men experience loss of power, I am simply unqualified to address these issues at this time.

Unfortunately, I ended the session rather abruptly when all three skits had been acted out and we had had brief discussions about the styles their skits exemplified. I kind of panicked and just said ok, we're done. Lol! Not my most shining moment. Had I had a chance to think it through, I might have adapted the material to my audience and facilitated a more well-rounded, albeit shorter, session. Or, frankly, I may have declined to facilitate my workshop for women for a group of men. But because I hadn’t had any of this foresight, I found myself at a loss and as a result left the participants feeling as though the workshop was incomplete. Oops.

Overall these two facilitations have proved to be incredible learning experiences for me. They were opportunities for me to step outside of my role as observer in this new country and culture and engage directly in a different role. One of the learning goals I had set for my practicum was to determine whether any of the theory and practical application of conflict resolution principles I have studied to date are transferrable outside of the Western context in which I have studied them. I feel that I can conclude that to a certain degree, the fundamentals of behaviour and communication are, in fact, transferrable. I was able to observe this concretely in the ways that all of the participants from both groups asked questions while I presented the theory and then applied the theory in their role plays through conflict situations that are relevant and real in their own lives. This was truly fascinating for me.

I also feel that I have a much deeper and more tangible appreciation of the importance of having a rich understanding of both broader socio-cultural issues, and deeper cultural nuances before preparing to do any kind of cross-cultural training. I was prepared with some of this knowledge given my extensive research into Congo’s history and contemporary social conditions. This work was validated for me after my session with the students. Upon a short debriefing in Pasteur Mukambo’s office, he informed me that one of the participants sitting next to him – who had avoided directly participating in any of the activities – had nonetheless listened intently during all of our time together and had at one point whispered to her friend that the things I was talking about were what they live every day. This gave me an incredible sense of relief and satisfaction. However, had I taken into consideration some of the social details such as their rote education setting or some of the broader cultural realities such as the social hierarchy of power, I believe that I may have had more success in getting the messages of empowerment in our workshop across to the participants. This will be invaluable knowledge in the future.

Like I said in my last post, I'm just a kid from Winnipeg. If you had told me that I'd be doing this sort of thing here I would have slapped you on the back and said 'I didn't know you were funny!'

Saturday, July 11, 2009

17 jours avant... ?

17 days before... ?

Forgive me. This is going to be a bit of a ramble. I don't have much of a theme, as I've had in my other posts, because my head is spinning a little and I need to spit it all out at once somehow. So this is where I'm going to do that.

17 days before I leave Congo. 17 days. Ooohhhhhh boy oh baby, what a strange feeling. I feel torn. I certainly feel differently about Canada at this point in my life. I have had so many people express so much interest in Canada since my arrival. Why? Because Canada is never in the news and people don't know anything about it. The CBC is not among the list of international news stations that we get on satellite at John and Charity's, such as CNN, BBC, and Al Jazeera. So many people have said to me "Canada is a really quiet place. Does anything happen there?" These are Congolese people mostly. Consider their frame of reference; this is a country that's been torn for years by war. Does anything happen in Canada? Well, relative to Congo, I guess no. But I'm actually really ok with that. I feel grateful for that. I feel so fortunate to know that I am going back to a place where nothing happens. And particularly Winnipeg. I mean really. But on the other hand, I feel like there is an increasing weight on my presence here, as though I am being pulled down in place. As though something in me is trying to take root here in Congo. There is so much to do here. So much work. So much need. So much life that's begging to be lived. During the past week people have begun to ask me whether I am looking forward to returning home. I kind of waver when people ask that question. My response is something along the lines of "eeehhhhhmmm..." to which people will say "but it's your home! Won't you be glad to be home? Don't you miss it?" and I've figured out the perfect response. "Canada will always be there, but I will not always be in Congo." That pretty much sums up how I feel about going home at the moment. It's not quite an answer that indicates clearly whether I am looking forward to home, but it's all I've got right now.

I've been back at Kulungus' for just over a week now, resuming the activities and projects I had been working on when I first arrived. We finally got power back yesterday evening after eight days with no electricity. Candles for light and coals for cooking. It's a bit like camping, actually, except that we're in the middle of a city with a population of 12 million +. Back at UC Kin and at Papa Pascal's centre, things have been a little slow. The general atmosphere has felt something along the lines of "Oh, you're back. Ok, let's get organized." Lol. That's pretty much how things work around here; no one really gets a sense that things are going to happen until they are already happening. This has to do, in large part, with the fact that more often than not, things end up falling through - particularly with expats - so people have developed the habit of waiting to make preparations until there is proof that things will actually move forward. So, I spent a lot of my time in Papa's office at UC Kin while he worked on various projects and tried hard to get a group of students and teachers together to begin another Peer Mediation session. They had all been informed that we were to begin this week, but because school is out now and because there have been a whole slew of miscommunications and because there are other varying excuses coming from students as to why they are unable to attend on a given morning, I did a lot of sitting around and fiddling with Papa's laptop with an unreliable internet connection and a terrible battery that refuses to stay powered up even when it's plugged into the wall. I must share my fave excuse of the week: Thursday morning, Papa was running around looking for the students who were supposed to be in our classroom at ten o'clock. It wasn't until around noon that Jean Claude came by to let us know that he had spoken with some of the students and they said that they couldn't come to the session in the morning because it was too cold out. It was 27°C. You should have seen people, though. People were really cold. They had goosebumps and were actually wearing winter jackets. Oooohhh, Congo. En tous cas, sitting in his office gave me an opportunity to observe a number of interesting occurrences. Here are the most interesting:

Because Papa is the Financial Administrator for the university, students with issues paying their tuition often come by to explain why and ask for extensions; they're writing exams right now, and many are being chased out of the exam rooms because they haven't paid. So one student this week comes in to see Papa and explains that he can not pay his tuition in full because of varying exchange rates in different parts of the city. He had US dollars but exchanged them for Congolese Francs downtown. To his unfortunate surprise, the exchange rate in Binza Ozone (area of city where UC Kin is located) differs by two francs. So in total he was short about ten thousand francs.

That same day, two students came into Papa's office to advise him that there had been a death. A student of the university, about a year ago, got his girlfriend pregnant. The child was born albino. This student was so unhappy about his son's physical state that he poisoned the child's milk. The child died. I haven't heard any updates about this since.

The following day, students were waiting to write an exam but no one showed up with the exams for them to write. After they had waited a while, they started to get restless. The longer they waited, the more heated they became, until finally about 45 minutes after they should have begun writing their exam I heard a whole bunch of yelling somewhere close to me on campus. It went on for about twenty minutes and then began to die down. I found out later that day that what had happened was that the Dean of the faculty of Theology had not communicated with the prof of this class when and where the exam was scheduled. The students got angry and started calling all of the staff who happened to pass by them voleurs, stealers of their tuition money. !!! Someone had the sense to come and find Pascal and ask him to diffuse the situation as he is the peacemaker on campus. Ohhhh, Congo.

This is life. Keep your eyes open if you want to live it.

It turns out after all that there will be no Peer Mediation course. Couldn't manage to get a group of students to give up their vacation time to participate in a course. Go figure. I'll be spending the time I would have been following the course trying to track down publishers and get permission to translate a bunch of nonviolence literature for Pascal to use in his conflict resolution course for his centre. If I can, that could certainly take up the rest of my time. I am also babysitting two darling yellow labs during the next two weekends for a friend of John and Char's who lives at TASOK and is in the States on holidays. They're adorable. Whiny as hell, but great nonetheless. In addition, Pascal would like me to facilitate my workshop one more time here at UC Kin... oh wait a minute, I haven't even blogged about my workshops yet!! Oh man. So much has happened that I haven't blogged about. I spent almost two weeks in the middle of the bush, facilitated a conflict resolution workshop that my close friend Jessie and I wrote TWICE, made two new friends, and met Todd Howland, the Director of the Joint Office on Human Rights for the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights and the head of the UN Peacekeeping Mission in Congo (MONUC). He has offered to let me interview him before I leave. Yeesh I have a lot to catch you all up on!

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Esengo - Partie II




On Friday morning, I made a new friend. This is me with Dieu Merçi, "Thanks to God" in French, and Dieume for short. He is two. Dieume is a neighbour's little one who spends more time with the Mandefus than he does at his own home. Until Friday morning, he was so afraid of me - the first mondele he had ever seen - that he wouldn't even go near the house. This quickly became the running joke of the whole building. People kept trying to bring him into the house, but every time he saw me he'd run away screaming and crying. And then we'd all laugh.



So Friday morning, his mother had had enough. She brought him down to see me, and when he started crying and pulling away from the door she scooped him up and said "Stop! You will say hello to the maman" (have you ever tried to reckon with a Congolese woman?). This abruptly stopped his tantrum and she carried him over to me. I said bonjour, and he very poutily said BONJOUR! I said comment ça vas? He looked down and, totally unimpressed with meing forced to greet me, said CA VAS BIEN! When I held out my hand to him, the panic began to set in again and he started pulling away. One short 'eeh!' from his mother nipped that in the bud, and he let me shake his hand. Well. That was it. We were best friends from that moment on, and I became Yaya Megan (the Lingala word for big sister).



I really did become like and feel like a big sister to all of those kids; Elie, Debora, Esther, Beni, and Dieume. Even to some of the young orphaned girls and filles-mères. By the end of the weekend I had so many names flying around, from Maman Christianne to Yaya Esengo, that I could very well have forgotten my real name. Just plain old Megan. How dull (just kidding, Dad). Whenever I went out, the kids crowded around me and even sometimes on top of me the minute I returned.



After I got back from my first stay in Maluku, my mom informed me that her friend has put my name forward to speak on a panel next International Women's Day or Week about gender equality in Congo. After having told her about my weekend and experience with the young women the day I left, she and my aunt and uncle and me had a bit of a simultaneous epiphany: what better venue to give these girls and women a voice? Les Mamans agreed. So Friday night a group of eighteen young girls and women, some of the ALFEMADEC women, Papa Benjamin (to translate from Lingala to French for me) and I gathered under the tree to begin recording these women's lives. Over the course of the weekend I spoke with 28 women - not even an eighth of the women of Maluku who are living in desparity. Here are a few of them.



Fina Caidor is an orphan. She is 19 years old and has never gone to school. She is not married. Fina can sew, and makes a bit of an income as a seamstress, but doesn't own a sewing machine or have any material to work with. She is currently living with Maman Martine, as she has no means to support herself. She wants very much to go to school and learn to read and write.





Matondo is a mother. She is 19 and her father has passed away. She had to quit school when she was 14 because her family couldn't afford her school fees. Her older brothers kicked her out of the house soon after, telling her that she was useless and 'may as well just go and get pregnant.' Her husband left her a week after their son was born and she doesn't know where he is. His family refuses to speak with her. Matondo has no job and few employable skills. She wants to study so that she can raise her son and take care of her mother.



Bubala Pembe Mubaya is 36 and a mother of three (unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a picture of her). She has also taken in her younger sister's son. None of her children, between the ages of four and twelve, are in school because she has no means to pay their tuition. Her husband abandoned her only a couple of years ago. Bubala works in the fields and the forest collecting produce to sell in the market to feed and clothe her children, but this is not nearly adequate. She would very much like to be a seamstress because it pays much better, but she has no sewing machine or any of the other materials necessary.



How can I leave this place? By Monday, Matondo and Fina had also begun calling me yaya. They were so sweet. Shy as all get out, but sweet nonetheless. They begun sitting next to me, smiling at me; Matondo even began passing me her son whenever we were together. Maman Martine's daughter Natalie braided my hair. The ALFEMADEC women began giving me gifts. Maman Martine had some material of hers sewn into a Congolese outfit for me. Maman Yvete sent me home with an entire regime of plantains because I like fried makemba so much. And the afternoon I left, Maman Eugenie sent me off with money. She gave me money. 5000 Congolese francs. It was later explained to me that this is a regular practice for communities when their children who are students come home to visit. They understand that students are broke, and will generally collect a sum of money to send them off with so that they can pick up something they need; food, shoes, clothing, school supplies. These women with barely any means at all sent me, their student daughter, away with 5000 francs to buy myself something I need.



This was the point at which I lost it.



I burst into tears again! They all said stop, don't cry, this isn't a sad time (as their eyes filled with tears) and turned me around and sent me down the hill to where the driver was waiting to take me back to Kin. Loading me into the truck turned into a big sob fest. Everyone from my host family was there to send me off, as well as half of the neighbourhood who had begun to gather around to find out why the mondele was crying. Shit, I'm tearing up just thinking about it. They took me into their homes and shared their lives with me. They gave me a Congolese name. They called me their niece, their daughter, their sister, their mother. My family here in Congo.



Tell me, how can I leave this place?



I want to build them a school - free education with child care. I want to build them decent housing with plumbing and electricity. I want to publish their stories - not for resale, just for them. I want to learn from them and grow with them. I want to laugh with them. My family here in Congo.


Thursday, June 18, 2009

Esengo - Partie I


In Lingala, Esengo means joy. Esengo is my newest name, given to me by my host mother in Maluku, Maman Yvete. She didn't know this, but Joy is also my mother's middle name.

I got back from my second stay in Maluku on Monday night. I had arrived Thursday morning and immediately left with Maman Yvete to see the other women of ALFEMADEC who were, as always, sitting under their tree in front of Maman Eugenie's apartment building and preparing pondu for the evening meal. Their welcome was warm and different this time. Instead of simply lightly shaking my hand, they slapped it hard and kissed me three times, once on either cheek. This is a greeting I've only seen extended to close family and friends. There was another woman there who I had only met once briefly during my first stay whom I greeted last. After the kisses, she said in Lingala the equivalent of 'ah, yes, we accept you.' What a feeling.

Thursday afternoon we went back down to Maess, the community in which we had distributed the Vitamin A. We went to one of the homes of a group of young mothers ALFEMADEC works with, along with four other young girls from Mongengenge (the community where the ALFEM women live) to make chikwangue. Like fufu, chikwangue is a dish made with manioc flour eaten with almost every meal along with pondu. Either fufu or chikwangue comprise up to 80% of many people's daily caloric intake.



We all gathered under a tree in the yard - where so many women's activities take place - and mixed and kneaded the flour with water, rolled it into portions, then wrapped it in leaves and string to boil in a big pot over an open fire. This is me attempting to tie the string. We all had a big laugh at my expense. Good times had by all.

Thursday evening, my host father Papa Benjamin and Maman Yvete took me to a friend's home to sit with her awhile and have her explain her work to me. She is one of the ALFEM mamans and, as so many women do, serves her community by preparing food. Five to six days a week she prepares a lunch of fish, fufu or chikwangue, and pondu for a couple hundred employees at a local factory. She begins to prepare the following day's meal around six every evening - after she's fed her own family - and finishes for the night around ten or eleven. The following morning she's usually up at 3:30 to begin thawing the fish frozen the previous night and cooking the pondu and manioc dish (that's right- the previous night's four or five hours of work was simply reading the food to be cooked). She leaves the house by 6:30, drops the lunch off at the factory and returns no later than 7:30 to buy the breakfast of white bread for her family and send them off to work and school. Then she cleans the house and does the washing, and by around noon begins preparing her family's evening meal. At six that evening she starts all over again.


We sat with her a while and talked while she worked, and when she took a break we filed into the living room to sit with her husband. He bought us some beer - in Maluku people were constantly buying me beer, even at 11 in the morning; it's quite the treat at 1,500 to 2,500 francs a pop - and he impressed me with his English language skills. We laughed at most of my Lingala and they began asking me how my experience of Congo has been so far. This is a question that I'm asked often. "How do you find my country?" It's a question that I have a difficult time answering concisely.


How do I "find" Congo?


I find it fascinating, too marvelous to understand. My head is constantly spinning and my senses are always on overdrive; almost as though they are being assaulted, but not in a bad way. Congolese people are so friendly and hospitable and eager to both teach and learn from me (although I still can't imagine what I could possibly have to teach them, other than the fact that in Canada it gets colder than their freezers). Jusgt sitting in the presence of the women of Maluku, not speaking but just listening to their busy Lingala chatter and lively expressions, I've developed new understandings of the world as others experience it that will take me years to process to the point of articulation. This country's desparity and beauty is embodied in its people's every breath. It is rough, rugged, and raw. It is astoundingly honest and humble. It is mind-bogglingly complex. I love this country.


That's not what I said. Hehe.


I just tell people that I love it and it's hot and formidable. Then they laugh, and then I laugh, and they say ça vas, merçi, and I say ça vas, merçi. But people are always laughing at me, and I have nothing to do but laugh along. Have I ever learned to laugh at myself! I think my last Facebook status update was something to the tune of 'Megan has had enough embarrassing, character building moments in the past six weeks to build a whole new personality.' And that is why they named me Esengo last Thursday night. They said that my presence and my laughter have brought joy to their community. So of course I started beaming and choking back tears. Then they started laughing, and I started laughing. And then I told them that Joy is my mother's second name, and they exclaimed their surprise and said that it was meant to be, and I smiled and laughed, and they smiled and laughed.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Papa Kulungu le vieux

Papa Pascal's father passed away this past Saturday at the age of 89. Papa Pascal is in the States with his sons, as mentioned, and was unable to bury his father today with the rest of his family (as a five-week trip to the U.S. is an extremely rare occasion and not one that would likely be cut short).

Please send Papa Pascal and his family your warm thoughts and prayers.

Thanks.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Maman Christianna

Hahaha. This needs no translation.

Here in Congo I have many names. Among them are Megaa, Meganne, Mademoiselle Megan, Maman Meganne, and the latest but certainly not least: Maman Christianna.

My program here has taken a bit of a turn. Papa Pascal left two weeks ago now for a five-week trip to the States to celebrate his oldest son's graduation and spend time with his two other sons as well. As such, he, John and Charity, and I decided that it would be best if I spend the time he is away focusing on some other interesting and exciting opportunities that are available to me here. The biggest and baddest is the opportunity to spend some time in Maluku, one of Kinshasa's 24 districts, with a women's NGO called ALFEMADEC - Alliance des Femmes de Maluku pour Développement Communautaire (Alliance of the Women of Maluku for Community Development). Maluku, about 90 km outside the main city, is a small but spectacular paradise surrounded by the Congo River. For about five years, the rebel army of Jean Pierre Mbemba (now on trial in The Hague for war crimes and crimes against humanity) terrorized the community. Mbemba was, believe it or not, also one of the candidates in the 2006 presidential elections here. After Kabila won (twice, I might add) there ended up being a showdown between the Congolese armed forces and Mbemba's army, in which the Congolese army also took part in the pillaging.

I imagine that by now, you all have heard reports of the use of rape as a tool of war in DRC. The women who founded ALFEMADEC - the mothers of ALFEMADEC - did so in an effort to try and serve the needs of the hundreds of filles-mères (young girls in their teens - children, really - who've ended up mothers) in Maluku; many of whom were raped, most of whom are orphans, and a great number of whom have been abandoned by their families or remaining family members. Most of the girls have never even set foot in a school. The mothers do everything they can for these girls, from teaching them literacy and re-literacy, to giving parenting and physical hygiene courses, to teaching them how to sew and cook in order to give them some means to support themselves. And I have been given the privilege and the honour of their time.

I have so much to learn. Twice yesterday, and in two completely different contexts, I heard two different people refer to how in the West we say 'time is money.' They were trying to illustrate the difference between the ways in which we all perceive time. In the West, we're ten steps ahead of ourselves all the time and can never believe how quickly time flies. Here, not so much. Here, people around me aren't in a terrible rush to get from one place to another because things just take time. Need to make it from one point of the city to another? Leave an hour early so that you're only half an hour late. With no landlines, everyone is on pay-as-you-go cellular. But running out of credits on your phone is no need not to call before you drop in - and with such importance placed on hospitality, not to receive a guest would be terribly disrespectful. And this goes both for homes and places of business to, of course, an extent in the public realm... although the private realm can't be defined in the same way here as in the West either... I digress. En tous cas, the clock goes full circle every 24 hours everywhere in the world, but each hour lasts a different amount of time depending on where in the world you are. Because I am here for such a short period of time, I had in mind that I would be spending a couple days per week for a couple of weeks with ALFEM and the young women they work with observing their activities, training sessions, and various conflicts that they run into both on a daily and on a long-term basis. It would be a period that they would dedicate a little bit of concentrated time to and I would kind of move on to a new project. Hah.

I headed out Wednesday morning and spent three nights in this community in which a great number of children saw a white person for the first time in their lives upon my arrival. 'Mondele! Mondele!' is still ringing in my ears. I mean, I hear it all over the city, but in Maluku it reached epic proportions. And here, there is nothing inappropriate about staring. Some people literally dropped things when they saw me. In the middle of a market on Friday, within about two minutes I was surrounded by at least thirty girls and women chattering at me in Lingala, giggling and laughing, touching my hair, skin, clothes, and asking me to give them my earrings, bracelet, and even the piercings in my face, just as a souvenier. This district is like a little town that is so isolated from the rest of the bustling city. I spent most of my time just doing relationship building with the women. I went from Mademoiselle Megan to Christianne (and eventually Christianna) within about two hours because people have such a hard time pronouncing my first name but have a much easier time with Christine, my second. The one time it was mentioned last weekend - just in passing - it caught on like wild fire and along the line ended up transformed into Christianna. We prepared food together (food preparation honestly takes up about half of these women's days) in a communal spot where we made huge batches of various dishes, and then each woman took her share home to feed her family. They taught me how to pick manioc leaves and snap them off the stems properly to prepare pondu, the dish they make by grinding them up with garlic and pili-pili (a super-spicy pepper that they eat with everything), and showed me how to prepare maboke, the best steamed fish, prepared fresh the day it is bought, you have ever tasted in your life. They soaked up every little bit of information I could think to give them every time I observed a cultural difference.

There is no way that I can swoop in there and have an organized curriculum or schedule each day. They haven't organized themselves that way. Life isn't organized that way. We just don't allot fifteen-minute slots to each activity in our daytimers. We don't have daytimers. Silly Megan.

Because helping ALFEMADEC is a 4C (John and Charity's NGO) initiative, the administrative committee made the introductions last weekend for the work to begin, and this weekend came out to pick me up and meet with the women to see how things were coming along. The mothers gathered about fifteen of the filles-mères together as well, many of whom came with their children, and we all sat together in a meeting room that I believe was something of a school room as well. The mothers sat together along one wall, the 4C members at the front of the room, and I was given the honour of sitting amongst the young women of the community. All formalities of speech taken; first my my uncle, president of 4C, then the mothers, they asked me to say a few words about how the past few days had gone and what I envisioned in the weeks to come.

Instead, I burst into tears.

I was completely overcome with such a profound gratitude and sense of awe at their strength, their beauty, their struggle... and how willing they were to take this clueless mondele under their wings and treat her as a sister, a mother, a daughter. I stammered out my thanks to them in between sobs and desperately trying to get it under control, I sat down feeling a little dizzy and sorely inadequate.

Then something incredible happened.

One by one, the young orphans and filles-mères began to get up and come to the front of the room to address the 4C committee and tell their stories. In my flood of emotion, I opened the floor to the girls to use their voices and open their hearts to us. Four girls got up and in brief and in tears explained to us their hardships and dilemmas and the injustice in their lives. It was so powerful! I just can't find the right words here to articulate to you the force in the room. One of the girls who was sitting right next to me was one of the girls who got up, and when she sat down we exchanged a look that said 'thank you.' I wanted so badly to take her hand and just hold it, but I didn't for fear it might be inappropriate. But we shared something in that brief few minutes we were all in the room together.

On the way out I was given a message for my mother. I walked out in tears, on the brink of losing it, and les Mamans followed us out and took hold of me. They asked me not to cry, because it was bringing them to tears as well, and then Maman la Présidente (of ALFEMADEC) Eugénie said to me 'nous sommes tes mères, Maman Christianna, nous sommes tes mères ici, et tu es notre fièrté. Il faut dire à ta mère là bas au Canada que nous sommes tes mères et nous te gardons et protègons' - 'we are your mothers, Maman Christianna, we are your mothers here and you are our pride. You have to tell your mother in Canada that we are your mothers and we are keeping you and protecting you.' And this is supposed to make me stop crying.

I am going back on Thursday.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Les pieds sâles

Dirty Feet

Dirty feet are good because they mean I have been out. Half of this city's streets are mud and sand. Where there is a semblance of a sidewalk, it is normally not paved. Even wearing runners, socks, and pants sometimes doesn't keep the dirt off of your feet! And the further off the beaten path you go, the dirtier your feet get.

Today, my feet were filthy! I was so far off the path that my chauffeur today, Thomas, had to park because there was no way our 4x4 was getting us down that hill. To my complete surprise, I ended up on the opposite end of town down this hill in a little school with no electricity or running water in a tiny office about the size of a full bathroom with five other people discussing when I would facilitate the Conflict and Power workshop that Jessie and I wrote last year. Thanks entirely to Jessie for the idea and the initiative, we wrote a conflict resolution workshop aimed at women who had been victims of domestic violence in Winnipeg as our final assignment for Karen Ridd's Violence and Nonviolence course. We designed and wrote it, however, with every intention of actually facilitating it after the course was over, and in June we did so for some of the women at Outreach, the Fort Garry Women's Resource Centre's satellite location on Pembina. It was great fun and a success, and such an incredible and wonderful opportunity and experience for both of us. I don't know why, but on a whim I decided to bring it with me out here. I threw it in my suitcase the day before I left Winnipeg. My aunt and uncle had a look at it about a week ago and have been strongly encouraging me and supporting the idea that I explore the possibility of facilitating it here. They have been plugging it all over town, and for the past week I've been trying to wrap my head around it. My aunt mentioned it to a friend of hers yesterday who teaches at the school I was at today, and he immediately expressed interest in getting together with me. Everyone in the room with me was really excited about it, and beginning tomorrow I will set to the enormous task of translating it into French.

When I got home, my feet were so filthy in fact that I had to use Mujinga (our housekeeper)'s scrub brush for cleaning the bathtub to get them clean. It was marvelous.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Partie II de II - relations construites: Maman Megan (et autres étapes)





Part II of II - Relationship Building: Maman Megan (and other steps forward)

Don't read this yet. This is part II of the past week-and-a-half-or-so. Scroll down to part one.

As Karen Ridd has taught me to do, I am trying hard to be mindful of my experiences of cultural adjustment; to notice opportunities as they arise and act on them, to be aware of them as they are happening, and to reflect on them after they've happened. As a result I am enjoying them immensely.

Two Thursdays ago now (oh dear, three months is just not enough time!), I realized that I was not, in fact, hearing things and that people had been calling me Maman Megan. I asked Maman T why this was, and she explained to me that it is a highly significant sign of respect. I had an ahah! moment, followed by an awwwwww! moment, followed by a quiet oh, wow. moment all in the course of about 30 seconds. This turned out to be quite the day for me. Let me explain.

During the conflict resolution training session at the CPLB office that afternoon, the group was in the process of discussing conflict dynamics and how conflict can either be negatively or positively transformed by behaviours and attitudes. They first used a generic textbook-like story (Congolese culture is highly based on oral traditions and story telling), and then began to discuss conflict dynamics in Congolese context. They understand (as, to my relief, have I for the past two years of studying this country) their current conflicts as stemming widely from their colonial history. Going all the way back to the region's discovery by Belgium; through slave commerce; then understanding imperialist attitudes toward foreign territory inhabited by non-whites (and how colonies were established and justified), this historical progression is not only inextricable from Congo's current conflict, but also key to understanding conflict in Congo and many other post-colonial states today. They discussed colonialism for a while, and how attitudes and behaviours in that part of their history influenced conflict. When they were about to go on I somehow mustered up all of the courage I could and asked, for the first time since my arrival, if I might offer a thought. They listened politely as I explained that it could be that attitudes of entitlement, coupled with beliefs that what was to be found in this region was there for the taking, drove Leopold II and later the Belgian state in their behaviours. These same attitudes and beliefs can be seen behind not only Mobutu's actions for the thirty-plus years following independence, but also in a huge majority of the actors involved in their current conflict; European, North American, and African alike. This attitude of entitlement is a major theme running through Congo's history from the very first contact with Europe and really does help understand how it is that so many foreign actors have their hands in Congo's cookie jar, so to speak.

I couldn't believe it. As I struggled to articulate myself in French and suggest this idea, I watched their faces light up one by one as though there were cartoon lightbulbs being switched on over their heads.

Of course, they said, and then picked the discussion up and just started running with it, going down the list of significant events in Congo's history that exemplify this concept. They really seemed excited about being offered another angle from which to analyze their realities. Really, I couldn't believe it. I got something right! While they carried on with their discussion, I sat in my observer's position in the room which is removed from the table they sit around during the sessions, a little excited and dizzy with relief that neither had they been offended, nor put out, by my being so bold as to offer my Western perspective.

Did I earn myself some credibility? When the session was over and I was standing outside waiting for Jean Claude to lock up, one of the members of the session walked outside, up to me, and slowly and rather conclusively said "Bon, Maman Megan," with a smile. This was the first time that he had called me Maman.

Another way that I have been able to do some important relationship building has been through laughing. Congolese love to laugh; particularly at each other. This has been a bonus for me, being that I've been so socio-culturally clumsy and really kind of dorky this whole time. But it is so so important to laugh at yourself when you're being laughed at! Each time I've shared a laugh with someone, we've ended up just a little bit more comfortable with each other. This happened immediately with Maman T. Does that woman ever love to laugh!! She's really taken me under her wing and took on a sort of surrogate mother role with me almost right away. Next was Pascal, with whom I shared some full belly-laughs about his visits to Canada and cultural differences at the beginning of my second week.

After another weekend back with my family - that is, my biological family - I arrived back chez Kulungus and last Wednesday had Claudia take me to the Avenue de Commerce just outside the Grande Marché - Commerce Avenue outside the city's central market downtown. I was on the hunt for some good fabrics to have tailored into culturally and climatologically (so totally not the right word lol) appropriate clothing. It took about an hour each way from the house to get downtown in that sweltering heat by taxibus.

I suppose I haven't entirely explained these wonderful modes of transportation, have I? We-eh-ell. Most of them have had their seats removed and benches installed in them. There are usually anywhere from two to three more benches in them than it is possible to fit people comfortably or even logistically and there is about a foot between each bench for leg room. But where there is an inch of free space in a taxibus, a person will replace it. Six-seater vans are turned into twenty-seater taxis. Many of them have round holes cut into their sides for (not windows, but) air-holes, but more often than not the unfortunate people who end up getting in first get crammed up against them and block any air from actually making its way in. I plan on posting some video on my Facebook page of the Poids Lourds that I can covertly take in our vehicle behind the safety of the CIA-dark tinted windows of the back seat, and I should be able to get a few shots of them in the vid. And they are CHEAP (by my wealthy standards, anyways). The hour drive from Binza - the district in which the Kulungus reside - to downtown, cost 500 francs for each of us. The ride back was only 350 francs each (the price varies depending on what the driver of each individually owned taxi decides to charge that day, or ride, or for that person). The exchange rate last Wednesday was 800FC to $1 USD; you do the math.

Anyhow, by the time we got to the Ave I had finished all of my water and my clothes were thoroughly drenched. As in skirt sticking to ass getting out-wet. She led me around the Ave seemingly aimlessly for a while and I figured she was just showing me around and letting me take it all in; I'm almost always in vehicles being transported from one place to another, so this was the first time I really got a good chance to take in the sounds and smells and bustling colours up close. It was great! I put on my best I Am Not Brand New To This Country So Do Not Even Think About Trying To Take Advantage act (which, btw, Claudia said I do quite well) and 'casually' walked around with her. I didn't get a chance to find out until later why she was occasionally shaking her head or rolling her eyes or laughing to herself. Everyone told me before I left the house that I would be 'bothered' a lot and that it is a really good thing that I am able to wear my bag in front of me so that the pickpocket shegués can't sneak into it behind me. I got various other warnings of this nature before we left, but while we were on the Ave I really didn't notice much more than a few shegués asking me for money or to buy their wares and a whole lot of people saying mondele in between a whole lot of other Lingala words that I don't understand. And, of course, people greeting me. Finally, we ended up at this massive store with twenty foot-high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling fabric. You wouldn't believe it. I wanted to take pictures so badly!! It was completely overwhelming though. The heat, dehydration, and the selection were just too much for me and I barely even looked around. I just stuck to one corner and got the heck outta dodge as fast as I could! Even with the high ceilings, I began to feel a little claustrophobic after a while. As a result, I am bound and determined to go back! I got some really beautiful patterns, and one of the bolts I bought is, by fluke, some good quality West African material (says my aunt who lived in West Africa for six years). However, I also bought a much poorer quality fabric and none are Congolese! I was a little hasty. No worries. Now that I know what I am walking into, I'll go back and do it right. I'd like to go to some open air markets to get more, but there was one pattern there that I would really like to go back for. En tous cas, in the end I ended up paying $27 USD for 24 yards of material. Not too shabby, no?

When we got back to the house the first thing that Maman T asked me was whether I was bothered by many people. I told her no, not really; if there were many people calling after me I wouldn't know because it was all in Lingala! So Maman looked to Claudia, who began to giggle. She said that there were a whole bunch of men everywhere we went calling me a vraie cherie, which after a little probing I managed to get her to explain to me means a beautiful girl. Eeh! Not so! I insisted that there is no way that they could have been talking about me because white women are noooo match for the renouned beauty of African women. They wouldn't even have been able to see me next to her. Non, non! she laughs. They were talking about you! Nope, not so, I again insisted. It was you, dear.

Boy oh baby, that was it. Maman started laughing as soon as I started in on Claudia, and by the time I was finished my African women are more beautiful statement she was practically falling off her chair. And I swear that if Claudia's skin was just a couple of shades lighter I would have been able to see her blushing. I said that, too, and Maman started laughing even harder! The three of us laughed about this for a good ten minutes - no exaggeration. It was so great. Again the following morning, as we were both doing our hair in the bedroom, I offhandedly remarked 'eeh, çe qu'on fais pour la beauté, hein?' (the things we do for beauty!) which got us going again. 'A man wouldn't last a week in a woman's body!' 'Can you picture a man trying to put on his mascara in the morning? He wouldn't have eyes left by the end of the morning!' etc, etc. Breakthrough! The family is relatively conservative, and in a country in which many people will completely deny the existence of homosexuals, the idea of a man putting on mascara is, indeed, laughable. Additionally, other than Maman and Pascal most of them have kept a culturally respectful distance from me; not avoiding me or conversation with me by any means, but just generally not getting too close. The age gaps have a lot to do with it; particularly in Tshiokwe culture, children and youth stick with their age mates. 15 year old Julianna and 19 year old Christelle stick together and there is too much of an age difference for us to really develop a very intimate relationship. 22 year old Nene is very quiet and really sticks to herself. It's inappropriate for the guys to get close with me at all, regardless of their age. Claudia, about 26, is naturally the closest to me in age and has been the most open of all. She was always asking me how I was and seemed the most relaxed in her demeanour toward me, but we hadn't had any really critical incident-type bonding moments until this. It was suuuuch a fantastic feeling.

Since I can't add captions to my photos, and I am never able to take pictures of things I want to blog about, let me quickly explain the pics posted above (they are explained in reverse because they don't seem to want to post in the order I've explained them and I have been sitting in front of this computer for long enough for one day so don't want to copy and paste around!):

4)Dinner with friends of Aunt and Uncle - they are on either side of me for those of you who've never met them. I tried crocodile for the first time that night, which was delicious. Thankfully, this picture was taken near the beginning of the evening; the air conditioner barely worked and by the end of the evening I had sweated so much that I looked like I had just stepped out of the shower. I suppose ordering soup didn't help.

3)Mama and baby! This is our new backyardigan. Ellie is definitely no longer pregnant, and spends half of her time chasing the little one back into the house i.e. electrical box.

2)A longtime friend of John and Charity's, Pakisa, that aunt Char grew up 90 miles away from here in Kamayala. Pakisa has lived in the States for the past thirty-odd years, and told us last night that he wants to move back home; that he doesn't belong anywhere but Congo. It was beyond touching.

1)Just one of the breathtaking Kinshasa sunsets that I have the privilege of watching every night.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

Partie I de II - difficultés: la pluie, c'est la vie (et autres impossibilités).

Part I of II - Difficulties: Rain is Life (and other impossibilities).

Water. Eau. Mayi.

How can people live without water? If anyone out there has the answer to that question, feel free to post it below. I can't seem to figure that one out. We can live without electricity. Sure, given that we've been living with it for a pretty significant chunk of time and are really completely dependent on it, a sudden lack thereof might render life a tad bit difficult at first. I certainly wouldn't be blogging right now. But it's totally doable - when it gets dark, light candles, fires, or oil lamps. Cook over fire. Done. But we absolutely can not under any circumstances live without water.

During my first week here, the morning after I arrived at the Kulungu household the water disappeared from the pipes shortly after I had showered in the morning. They did not have running water again until Friday night after I had already left for the weekend. As mentioned, they keep huge reserves of water in barrels, buckets, and plastic containers because this happens so frequently. But even as much water as they store, which is used for cooking, drinking, bathing, cleaning, and washing, does not last a family of eleven a terribly long time! By Thursday we were so low on water that I couldn't bear the thought of using any more of what there was left and did not shower. I just washed my face and asked the girls if they had any perfume. However, since I've arrived near the end of the rainy season, we were in luck. It rains every night. As the water still had not returned by Thursday evening, all of the buckets and containers and barrels were set outside overnight and filled with rainwater.

Bless the rains down in Africa.

We were good to go on Friday morning with water a-plenty. L'eau est là! But what the hell do they do in the dry season? I asked Pascal the following week. I didn't get much of an answer. He paused and vaguely responded that they do what they can in the dry season. That's that. They do what they can.

IN THIS DAY AND AGE, THERE SHOULD BE NO ONE ON THIS EARTH WHO LIVES WITHOUT ELECTRICITY AND RUNNING WATER UNLESS THEY DO SO VOLUNTARILY. Period, the end. But this is the life of a people who live in a non-functioning state. Period, the end. There is not even a fundamental level of fully funcitoning infrastructure. The electricity cuts in and out 24/7. There is no waste collection/disposal. The roads disintegrate by the milisecond. Et l'eau ne coule pas - water does not run from people's taps... those of them who have taps. The taps, as Kinois (what Kin's residents call themselves) say, are on strike.

Mwana ya mayi, or child water carriers in Lingala, roam the streets by the thousands selling Eau Pure - 'pure' water that I've been advised against drinking - in 500 ml plastic sacs. They carry huge clear plastic bags about half the size of Glad garbage bags full of these small sacs of water on their heads, dashing in between cars and taxi-buses (of which, by the way, a large number are VW vans from the '70s) when traffic is frozen and walking up and down Kinshasa's streets morning, noon, and night. You can hear them everywhere you go, calling out 'eaupure! eaupure!' and making kissy-sounds to get peoples' attention. This is one of the many ways in which hundreds of thousands of Kinois families supplement their income (or, rather, their lack thereof). Families often have several small sources of income, actually; from universities to factories, it is not uncommon for even those Congolese who are employed to go months upon months without their wages. Families sell bread and/or a few different types of produce, such as garlic and onions, outside their homes. They take in sewing. They leave early in the morning to search all day for odd jobs and day labour. Unemployment. I have already mentioned this, but it stares me in the face every single day. The abject poverty in Congo has its population living on edge. On certain main streets in Kin, more during the evening and into the night, the tension in the atmosphere is thick and electric with desparity. Kinshasa's youth and young adults have no jobs and can't afford of school fees. They are restless. Many, of course, end up in illicit trades, motivated by the need to provide for themselves and their families. An overwhelming amount of mwana ya mayi are also shegué, homeless street kids.

Yesterday my uncle and I stopped on the side of the road to buy some fruit and he was approached by a presentable young man who looked to be around 19. He was clean cut and very polite. Initially my uncle sort of dismissed him, assuming that he had approached to ask for money (which happens just about any time you step out of a vehicle or a store), but he respectfully and firmly urged that my uncle listen; he was asking for work. Fabrise explained to John that he is studying pedagogy but has had to drop out of school because he can not pay his tuition, and is willing to do any kind of labour in order to be able to afford to continue his studies. Serendipity. John and I had just been discussing what we, in our positions of privilege, can do to help those around us without. My uncle made a quick phone call to a man he works with, who told him that he should send Fabrise to his office on Monday morning and he would find Fabrise a job. Just like that. John wrote him a note to bring with him and Fabrise seemed to be incredibly grateful :) This afternoon, my uncle called over to find out whether Fabrise had showed up, and was advised that he has been put on a one-month trial period to see how he works out. Success!

Monday, May 11, 2009

Au Congo, n'importe quoi est possible.

Anything is possible in Congo.

Congo is understood as a failed state by its people. Often when there is talk of anything related to infrastructure - the unreliability of electricity and water; the deplorable conditions of the roads - people will say with a chuckle and a shrug simply 'ça ne marche pas' (it doesn't work), referring not only to the electricity or the roads, but moreover to government. The DRC's economy is so dysfunctional that over half of its people can go their entire lives without a job. In urban Congo, there are three socio-economic classes: embarrassingly rich, dirt poor, and a level of poverty that shames the West.

My aunt and uncle have a very close friend who has lost three family members over this past year; most recently his sister, yesterday (Sunday) morning. She had been ill for some time, but was gone within just a few hours of taking a turn for the worse. She left behind a four-year-old son, who is now an orphan as his father died a couple of years ago of the 'Angola sickness,' an illness that many men who travel to Angola fall victim to there and then bring back and transmit to their wives. This little boy's uncle, my aunt and uncle's friend, has incurred the costs of all of these funerals. He does not have a job because there are no jobs to be had and he does not have the means to become self-sufficient in any entrepreneurial capacity, as so much of Congo's population does to make ends meet. Because there are no jobs. It takes money to make money. My family want so much to help him acquire the start-up capital he needs to begin raising chickens and rabbits, but the recent deaths in his life have redirected the financial support that they are able to offer. They really do all that they can for their friend.

"Fais tout ce que tu peux faire tel que tu es (do everything you can as you are).
Fais tout ce que tu peux faire avec ce que tu as (do everything you can with what you have).
Fais tout ce que tu peux faire là ou tu es (do everything you can where you are)."

These words hang on the wall in the little CPLB office, which is about the size of my bedroom; Jean Claude wrote them when he was in Zambia working on his masters thesis last year. Anything is possible in Congo. This is what everyone in Congo says at least once per day and I immediately picked up on it. Jean Claude's words embody the souls of the people of this country. Truly, anything is possible. Taxis have no mirrors, bumpers, doors, shocks, and various other pretty important parts and still operate all day and most of the night every day. On fumes. Women with no ovens sell fresh bread every morning. Men push 500 lb wagons for miles on end around Kin (you can pick them out of crowds - they're built like brick shithouses). Other men pound sheets of corrugated metal into sheets of flat metal with nothing but their bare hands and the inside rims of tires on the side of the road (these guys are also fairly sized). Families of eleven with unreliable incomes of $100-150 USD per month manage to eat once, twice, even three times per day. And still, they give everything they possibly can to others in need. Walk an hour in 39° weather instead of taking a 500 franc taxi ride (the exchange rate has been floating around in between 700-900 Congolese francs to $1 USD for months now). And laugh every day. Sincerely and heartily.

Anything is possible in Congo.

On my flight from Paris to Kin, the plane had a camera underneath it so you could watch everything you flew over throughout the entire duration. Although much of it was just white, once we reached Africa the clouds parted beneath us. I was able to see the burnt orange/red rippled sand of the Sahara as we flew over it, and the shadows of the few and sparse little clouds on the ground. As we continued on to sub-Saharan Africa, the clouds returned for a while and I switched channels on the satellite TV for a while, periodically checking back. After about six hours on the plane I couldn't concentrate on anything anymore and I just switched back and stared at the white screen... and then we reached the DRC. I could tell because through openings in the clouds, I caught glimpses of the Congo River. Although there are many large rivers that flow through Congo and really, it could have been any of them, somehow I just knew that what I saw was the river. I have been studying this country for two years, as most of you know, and no academic work is without mention of this river. It is the very lifeblood of Congo; a source of food and water, transportation, exploitation through brutal colonial methods of forced labour for resource extraction, and of life. I just knew it when I saw it. As we continued to descend and reached Kinshasa; I could see the river winding around and through the city. What I felt was simply indescribable. I, Megan Christine, was and still am at a complete loss for words. So inarticulate. A surge of energy, a wave of hope, a profound sense of awe just rocketed through my body. The river. Last night, my aunt and uncle took me for a walk along the river, where it separates the borders of Congo-Kinshasa and Congo-Brazzaville. I finlly got to see the river up close!! The path they took me to along the river is marvelous - lush green and full of the sounds of birds, the scents and sights of blossoms I've never seen before, and the branches of absolutely massive mango trees hanging over the walls of the courtyards along the path. It was calm and quiet. The sun was setting on the river in an explosion of pink and orange fire. It was magnificent.

Somehow, the physical beauty of the scenery last night both embodies and yet does not come close to touching the absolute beauty of Congolese resilience. Resilience in the face of desparity is something so beautiful as to evade accurate description. But the river is truly an incarnation of Congolese resilience.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Ah, le monde culturel.

Today I have been in Congo for one week and one day. One week! I feel like I have been here for at least a month. Can you say cultural adjustment? Yep. You bet. I have felt like a bull in a china shop for most of my time so far. A perfect example is Friday. A little background is necessary:

One of the things I will be doing this summer is observing and perhaps teaching a peer mediation course that Pascal is teaching/facilitating for two classes at UC Kin; one class made up of primary school kids from all levels, and one made up of secondary school kids of all levels (there is a primary and a secondary school on the university campus). Wednesday was my first day of work, and I spent it at UC Kin for a few hours and sat in on and observed Pascal in his first interaction with the kids and listened to him give an introduction to this course. I have arrived just in time for him to start this course, and it will last until around the middle of July. When the kids complete the course they will receive certificates from Pascal's CPLB in peer mediation. It's a really fantastic initiative, and I am so glad that I arrived just in time for the beginning of the course. So this is what I'll be doing each Monday, Wednesday, and Friday around midday.

Because I had already visited UC Kin on Wednesday, when I arrived back on the campus I was feeling a little confident because I was in a familiar place. I actually felt confident as I walked down the hall with Jean Claude and even remembered how to get to Pascal's office! Now, on the fifteen minute walk over to the university from Pascal's house, I told Jean Claude that although I have no experience teaching and may not be very helpful yet in that arena, I would like to help him out to the best of my ability in any way I can. I just wanted to put that out there because I was feeling a little useless (more about that later).

Well.

In the first class - the secondary students - things weren't going quite as well for Claude as they had gone for Pascal on Wednesay; the students were unresponsive and not listening and just generally being teenagers, and I could tell that Claude was a little bit at a loss for how to engage them. I would have felt exactly the same way! I am much better with elementary-aged kids than I am with teen-aged kids. So can you guess what his solution was?

There is a buzzer sounding for everyone who guessed anything other than that he told the kids that at that point I was going to get up and ask them some questions.

Oh yes. That's right. "Now, she is going to ask you some questions and speak to you about mediators." You're kidding. This is some sort of joke. I honestly thought that I had misunderstood him. I stayed in my seat in the corner of the room. He turns to me and motions for me to get up and stand in front of the class! I do not get up; instead, I say to him that I am not sure what he wants me to do. "Just talk to them a bit. Go." So... I start to sweat because that is just what I do in Africa. I sweat.

I get up there and stutter out some question in broken French that I am desperately trying to connect with the topic Claude was addressing (which, by the way, I am not entirely understanding at this point in the morning); the kids really don't get what I am talking about and no one raises a hand but they are polite and don't give me a hard time and I thank them and sit back down as absolutely quickly as I can feeling, once again, totally out of my element and unsure of myself. Ego check completed.

Then I broke the door handle to the bathroom off. Pulled it straight off. Broken in three pieces with the key stuck through the keyhole, even though the actual lock was still in the door.

Voila; this was what my whole week was like. One episode after another. I have essentially spent the past six days laughing at myself, one blunder after another.

However, on Friday when my aunt Charity came by to pick me up for the weekend, Christelle told me that they would miss me until my return with a sad face, and then
Maman Jeanne told Charity that she was not allowed to take me away because I now belong to them. Bless her little heart, as Alex would so fondly say. I almost cried when I heard these two statements one after the other! They came as a surprise and a relief. As I've already mentioned, the Kulungu family has taken me into their home with open arms. They've been overwhelmingly hospitable and accommodating all week. I have barely lifted a finger. Don't get me wrong because I feel immeasurably grateful and appreciative for everything they've done and will continue to do for me, but by Friday morning I was at the point where I was beginning to feel some frustration at being waited on and sitting around completely uselessly... as well as a sense of guilt that has swallowed me like a cloud of smoke since I arrived at my immense privilege. I began to worry that they would resent me terribly by the end of the summer if they felt like they had to continue to serve me as they are. I tried time and again to help clear the dishes after dinner; to wash the floor in the morning; to fetch water from their reserves for my own bathing purposes... but they insisted that I not do these things myself.

In Pascal's words earlier in the week regarding an entirely unrelated topic, 'Ah, le monde culturel.' I expressed this frustration to my fam on Friday evening. I can't go all summer like this!I mean really, if I had a guest staying with me for a week, chances are that I would do the exact same. I would want to make their stay in my home as comfortable as possible for the short time they were there and let them leave with warm thoughts and feelings about our visit. But for three months forget it. Pull your own weight! Make yourself at home means that you can get your own glass of water. However, in Tshokwe (correct spelling of Chokwe) culture, explained my aunt and uncle, it is a joy and a privilege to have guests and to serve them. They would treat their own family the exact same way, even if the stay were as long as six months or a year. Huh. Ok, well, huh. So I needn't fret...? Really? This is soooo different. And interesting and inspiring. To find joy in service is certainly not a popular Western notion, but is one that to me reflects a profound sense of connectedness to our fellow persons' well being. A vested interest in the wellness of those around us. It's beautiful and is something that I feel like I've been searching and longing for in a world that I've been increasingly feeling is run by violent and hurtful processes that can be likened to a type of global social Darwinism lately. So I will try to understand this value, and try to respect and honour it instead of feeling guilt about my great privilege; guilt: that useless and self-destructive non-emotion that serves no one. This is a tiny little nutshell version of what's been on my mind since my descent on Kin and stepping off the plane into this marvelous country. Lol.

I have so much more to say, but I am pecking away at this French keyboard upon which a bunch of letters are jumbled around in different places and this has actually taken me about an hour to type and I just don't really feel like typing anymore. Sorry folks! I will either pick it back up later this evening, or around mid-week.