Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Mais, avant que je rentre...

But, Before I Leave...

I am afraid that this might be my last entry before I go. I have a week left. A week. A week!! I don't even know what to do with that thought. I facilitated my workshop for the last time yesterday at UC Kin, didn't have a nap in the afternoon, and stayed up all the way until ten. By all standards since I've arrived here, I should have been exhausted. But I still only managed to stay asleep until four A.M. because a dream about re-entry into Canada woke me. I finally started to drift back off about 45 minutes later and another dream about re-entry woke me. I gave up on sleep and instead just lay quietly listening to the breathing sounds of the other three women and two-year-old child sleeping in the room with me and tried to imagine what it's going to be like to sleep in a room alone.

I've got to admit that I'm still nervous about coming home. Really. It's silly; I've lived in Winnipeg all my life. It is the most familiar place in the world to me. But I just feel like it's going to look differently. I am trying to grapple with the thought of clean, lit streets at night and strong water pressure. How is it that I've only been here for three months, but those basic amenities are starting to seem somehow unnatural? Hah! Wierd. Perhaps it is again guilt rearing its ugly head, creeping up behind me to remind me that this is not my life and that I am going back to a place where there is no malaria and even if there were, most people would not have to choose between buying mosquito nets or feeding their families. Perhaps guilt is making me disassociate from all of that good stuff. I don't know. But before I go, I want to take inventory of all of the wonderful things about this wonderful country. I want all of the good things to be first and foremost in my mind when I arrive back in 'Peg city.

Sounds
-the sound of men selling bread in big metal tubs on their heads, walking around tapping a knife on the side of the tub
-the sound of walking shoe-shiners clapping wood together
-the sound of walking manicure/pedicurists tapping glass bottles together
-the sound of kids walking around at night when the power's gone off tapping on tin cans; selling palm oil to light lamps
-the sound of women selling fruit on the side of the road letting out a big 'eeh!,' then arguing rapidly in Lingala about the price of fruit or the exchange rates
-the sound of people sweeping out their compounds
-'eaupure! eaupure!'
-'eeeehhh, mondele mbote!'
-the collective 'awwwwwww' from the neighbourhood when the power goes out, and the shouts of joy when it comes back on... every single time
-falling asleep listening to the music drifting down the road from the local pub

Sights
-a million different fabrics in a million different colours... and being able to tell which one just came out
-not one woman wearing shoes that fit her
-rows upon rows of people with oranges, water, apples, bread, and whatever other fruit that's in season in multicoloured plastic tubs on their heads, walking to their spot first thing in the morning
-groups of five to ten guys all leaning up against cars that don't belong to them, all wearing shades, all wearing D&G, Versace, and Prada... all unemployed but so cool
-psychotic taxi drivers pulling across into the middle of intersections covering both lanes of traffic going in either direction and stalling
-papaya trees growing out of the side of massive heaps of garbage and bearing fruit
-the Congo river

Smells
-..... I'll have to get back to you on this one

Sensations
-the feeling that comes along with feeling something very light touch your arm or hand, and then looking down to see a small child looking up at you in wonder and shyly smiling while standing behind her mother
-the feeling that comes along with other small children being terrified of you because they've never seen white people before, and then everyone in the room rolling around on the ground laughing
-the feeling of sitting in the middle of a group of women speaking in a language I don't understand and quietly trying to break manioc leaves off of their stems without getting my hands tapped and shown how I'm doing it wrong (but having no idea what the difference is in the way I'm doing it)
-the feeling of no personal space
-the feeling I get when Pascal's mother greets me or starts clapping upon my arrival

I had an interesting experience tonight. A delegation of ten young people - nine from Canada, seven from Winnipeg, all here on missions - came to dinner. Papa had told me that we were having a group of Canadians in for dinner and I honestly expected them to be middle-aged, not my age. So when the all filed in the door I was surprised, and had no idea that they were from my city. Ma ville! We talked, but not about Canada. We talked about Congo, about various cultural and other types of experiences we've had since we've arrived. I believe that all but one of them had ever been here before; Paul said that he got the Congo bug a few years back and has been back every year since. I know the feeling and I haven't even left yet. Many ex-pats have mentioned this to me; something about this country that gets in your blood and draws you back no matter how far you go or how long you're gone. Hello, my dear aunt was gone for 30 years and has returned home now en permanence. So we all sat out in a big circle in the courtyard after dinner and talked about Kinshasa. We had a lively discussion about mondeles. It was great. Papa, Paul, and I all laughed. The rest of them giggled nervously and all looked uncomfortable with the whole ordeal. I felt like an insider looking out, or an outsider looking in... at how I felt when I first arrived when I heard that word and every time I went out and attracted so much attention. I didn't even realize that I don't even realize anymore whether or not I am attracting attention with my skin or that the word mondele doesn't bother me anymore. In fact, I have begun correcting people when they mistake me for Chinese. They'll say 'neehaw!' and I'll say 'te, te, pas chinois. Mondele.' When they all filed out at the end of the evening and we walked them up the street a bit, I got a wonderful and bizarre feeling. I felt this huge sense of relief that I was not with them; that I was staying here in my home in Binza. Their visit this evening made me feel closer to my family.

I had another emotional event last week. The day that John and Charity left I was a mess. Their leaving really brought it home to me that I, too, would be leaving all too shortly (interesting choice of words I've made...). I cried. Then Maman Therese started crying. Then Claudia started crying. We were all standing in the girls' room with one arm around each other crying. It must have looked ridiculous :) That thought occurred to me right in the middle of our orchestra but it didn't make it any easier. I have begun my goodbyes and until-next-times.

I have to start saying that.

Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Comment faciliter un seminaire de resolution de conflit au Congo... ou Quoi eviter en facilitant!

How to Facilitate a Conflict Resolution Workshop in Congo... or What to Avoid When Facilitating!

The Workshop
In 2008, my dear friend Jessie Robinson and I wrote a conflict resolution workshop as a final project in a course facilitated by Karen Ridd at the University of Winnipeg called Violence and Nonviolence. We were interested in writing a workshop that addressed specific needs of women who had experienced domestic violence at the hands of men in their lives; neither of us, as undergraduate students, had any expertise in trauma healing as such. Therefore, at Karen's advice and encouragement, we tailored our workshop to deal specifically with issues of the loss of power that women may feel as victims, and how they might be empowered once again. We facilitated the workshop in June of 2008 at Outreach, the Fort Garry Women’s Resource Centre’s satellite location, for six women and found that we had a great deal of success in offering the skills and tools that we did.

The day before I left for Congo, on a whim, I packed my facilitator’s manual. After being read by a few different people, I was asked to facilitate our workshop at a school in Sanga Mamba in Kinshasa for a group of young girls who are in the process of learning to become seamstresses. Additionally, I was asked to facilitate for their teachers during a separate session. My facilitations were arranged through Pasteur Ya Namwisi Mukambo, who is a member of the administrative board of the school.

The Students

With the group of girls, I was able to follow my facilitator’s manual relatively closely. Oh wait, did I mention that there were fifty-five girls participating?? Yes, that's right. 55. Actually, we did several head counts throughout the morning. We started with 37, and did another count twenty minutes later and had 46. 45 miutes later, I asked that we count again, and the result was 63 participants. I had to put my foot down. I really didn't want to deny anyone the opportunity to participate, but really. I'm just a kid from Winnipeg who wrote a workshop. Did I mention that I had only facilitated once before, with a partner and six participants? Right. So I cut them off at 55. I started by attempting to do an icebreaker with them. The girls did, at first, have some difficulty understanding the instructions. When I attempted to move around the circle one by one, giving each participant a chance to play the game, the girls on either side of me feigned ignorance and claimed that they did not understand French (even after it had been explained to them in Lingala). There were however, enough participants who were bold enough to give the game a try. I ended up proceeding by letting them call out as they built up the courage to participate instead of going around the circle in order; with 55 participants in total, we ended up with enough bold participants to have some fun in the end. It wasn’t until about an hour after we had begun the session that morning that I realized that because the students are taught in rote, the concept of participatory learning must be unfamiliar to them. It would not make for a positive experience for any of them if I were to force each one to participate. Therefore, I carried out the rest of the workshop’s activities in the same manner as the first icebreaker in order to gently introduce this new concept.

After the first icebreaker, I did two brainstorming activities with the girls. The first brainstorm was in setting guidelines of behaviour on the rest of our time together that day, and the second was in identifying both negative and positive aspects of conflict. Upon reflection, I realize now that the brainstorm sessions themselves would have been put to much better use as icebreakers, as they slowly opened the participants’ minds to the idea that they could be free to speak their minds and that they already possessed valid knowledge.

After going over the five conflict styles with them – accommodation; avoidance; compromise; collaboration; and competition – I organized them into groups and asked them to come up with a two or three minute skit that exemplified a conflict and that made use of one or more of the five conflict styles in its resolution. This role play activity was by far the greatest success of the day. Whereas when Jessie and I facilitated our workshop for the women in Winnipeg and decided halfway through the morning not to include the role plays, here in Congo the opportunity for theatrics and drama was perfectly culturally appropriate. They were fantastic! The girls got right into them, and all wanted to be the first group to present. We ended up drawing numbers from a jar. During each one, the whole audience also got involved; clapping and calling out to the 'actors' in response to occurrences in the skit. Their skits also gave me some invaluable insight into the types of conflicts that are common and most pressing in their lives. Very interestingly, three out of five groups presented skits that addressed common conflicts regarding cell phones. When I first arrived in Kinshasa and was given a cell phone to use during my stay here, I was warned against leaving it unattended anywhere or carrying it in a place that could be easily accessible to a pickpocket because it would be sure to go missing. Not only is theft a major issue, but so is cell phone credit; there are no land lines in Congo, and all plans work on a pay-as-you-go basis. I have tried to restrict the number of people that I’ve given my phone number out to, but still I get text messages and quick phone calls on a regular basis from people who have somehow come across my phone number and are asking me to recharge the credits on their phones (the assumption being that I, as a Westerner, have plenty of money to share). In fact, as I was writing just five minutes ago I got a phone call from one of the student participants in this workshop asking me to recharge her phone. Wireless communication can be a major issue of contention in many contexts here in Congo, and it can cause major rifts in relationships. The other two groups presented different issues. One group’s conflict was between a husband, his wife, and his mistress; he was treating his mistress better than his wife.

After the skits, we took a lunch break to snack on bread, roasted peanuts, and pop, and continued on after approximately a half hour. Although I did continue with the second and third sections of the workshop, I read through them quickly and left out all but one activity. The reasons for which I decided to leave out the parts I did are as follow:

First, the girls were getting restless. Even after taking a break and having something to eat, they had still begun itching to leave because each day of school here in Congo (and in much of Africa) only lasts for half a day. Second, after having spent the morning with them, upon reflection I had realized that because they do not live in an egalitarian culture and society, many of the issues concerning women’s empowerment that are addressed in the workshop do not transfer culturally. Further, I became mindful of the fact that I could potentially do more harm than good if I were to try to convince the young girls that they could independently control their decisions and their lives; an individualistic world view that does not exist as such here in Congo. Decisions need to be considered in terms of the ripple effects that they can have on various family and social groups. There are issues of face-saving and collective conflict resolution processes among parties to conflict that involve intermediaries that the material concerning empowerment in my workshop does not address. Because I have not done an adequate amount of research into this aspect of Congolese culture, I decided to dilute the empowerment messages in the latter part of the workshop. After outlining the seven-step conflict resolution process in the workshop for the participants, I finished with a simple empowerment activity whereby I asked the girls to finish the following phrase: “I feel powerful when…” I saw positive results with this activity and noticed several of the girls smiling and clapping for one another.

What worked and what was challenging
To my surprise the girls did incorporate the conflict styles into their skits. I was concerned that they might have difficulty with conceptualizing the application of the new information in a learning environment that was so different from what they are familiar with, but this was not the case. They did a great job of exemplifying the uses of the styles in conflict and moreover of incorporating them into their own contexts. This has given me a strong indication that there are aspects of conflict and how conflict is experienced that are universal.

However, not all of the workshop’s material proved to be universal. The participatory learning facilitation methods didn’t carry over to a rote education setting very smoothly. In fact, I don’t believe that the role of a facilitator as I understand it – as a person who fosters critical thinking and participants’ abilities to come to their own conclusions – is a role that these girls, at their age and level of experience with this type of workshop, are familiar with. By the end of the day, they had come around and seemed more comfortable with actively participating, but it was incredibly slow going during the first few hours. Further, the concept of women’s empowerment that I attempted to offer them did not transfer culturally. This message was shaped in my Western, egalitarian society. Here in Congo, I do not find an egalitarian society. I find a culturally embedded hierarchy of power in both social and familial roles. Both socioeconomic and political systems in Congo reproduce and reinforce this hierarchy. I had sensed, by the middle of my facilitation, that to push the empowerment message without a way to make it meaningful or relevant here in Congo could mean that the conflict resolution skills and material that we had spent the entire morning working on might end up being rendered obsolete to them. Therefore, I read quickly through the sections on power and only facilitated the empowerment activity with them at the end of the workshop.

Did I mention that there were 55 participants? I found that a little challenging.

The Teachers
With the teachers, our workshop was transformed in a way that it dealt only with styles of behaviour and communication in conflict. When I arrived in the morning, I had a moment of panic when I found that 28 out of 30 participants were men. It was not their gender in and of itself that made me panic – although I must admit that this, too, intimidated me – but it was the fact that I was about to facilitate a conflict resolution workshop written for women who’d experienced violence at the hands of men for men. I had to ask myself why I hadn’t thought of this before I agreed to do the session for the teachers. I should have known that it would be almost exclusively, if not entirely, men; I have experienced time and again since I arrived being the only woman in countless professional and/or academic settings. My session with the teachers was much shorter than that with the students. I only presented the first section of the workshop, covering just up to the final role play after having introduced the five conflict styles, and ended our session together right after the role plays had been discussed.

What worked and what was challenging
The brainstorming and the role play activity went over quite well. The teachers were much more active participants, which made my role as facilitator much easier when it came to generating and encouraging discussion in a language that I am still working at ameliorating. However, I did not touch on a key aspect of the workshop at all. Men do not experience power in the same way as women do. I was presenting this material in a hierarchical culture in which, contemporarily, men occupy the majority of the upper rungs of this order – which, I must add, is not to state that all men abuse their more powerful status. Because, in addition to their inherent power as men they also hold positions of authority as teachers, to give a workshop on conflict and power to this particular group would have entailed entirely different material. As I have not done research in depth into how men experience loss of power, I am simply unqualified to address these issues at this time.

Unfortunately, I ended the session rather abruptly when all three skits had been acted out and we had had brief discussions about the styles their skits exemplified. I kind of panicked and just said ok, we're done. Lol! Not my most shining moment. Had I had a chance to think it through, I might have adapted the material to my audience and facilitated a more well-rounded, albeit shorter, session. Or, frankly, I may have declined to facilitate my workshop for women for a group of men. But because I hadn’t had any of this foresight, I found myself at a loss and as a result left the participants feeling as though the workshop was incomplete. Oops.

Overall these two facilitations have proved to be incredible learning experiences for me. They were opportunities for me to step outside of my role as observer in this new country and culture and engage directly in a different role. One of the learning goals I had set for my practicum was to determine whether any of the theory and practical application of conflict resolution principles I have studied to date are transferrable outside of the Western context in which I have studied them. I feel that I can conclude that to a certain degree, the fundamentals of behaviour and communication are, in fact, transferrable. I was able to observe this concretely in the ways that all of the participants from both groups asked questions while I presented the theory and then applied the theory in their role plays through conflict situations that are relevant and real in their own lives. This was truly fascinating for me.

I also feel that I have a much deeper and more tangible appreciation of the importance of having a rich understanding of both broader socio-cultural issues, and deeper cultural nuances before preparing to do any kind of cross-cultural training. I was prepared with some of this knowledge given my extensive research into Congo’s history and contemporary social conditions. This work was validated for me after my session with the students. Upon a short debriefing in Pasteur Mukambo’s office, he informed me that one of the participants sitting next to him – who had avoided directly participating in any of the activities – had nonetheless listened intently during all of our time together and had at one point whispered to her friend that the things I was talking about were what they live every day. This gave me an incredible sense of relief and satisfaction. However, had I taken into consideration some of the social details such as their rote education setting or some of the broader cultural realities such as the social hierarchy of power, I believe that I may have had more success in getting the messages of empowerment in our workshop across to the participants. This will be invaluable knowledge in the future.

Like I said in my last post, I'm just a kid from Winnipeg. If you had told me that I'd be doing this sort of thing here I would have slapped you on the back and said 'I didn't know you were funny!'

Saturday, July 11, 2009

17 jours avant... ?

17 days before... ?

Forgive me. This is going to be a bit of a ramble. I don't have much of a theme, as I've had in my other posts, because my head is spinning a little and I need to spit it all out at once somehow. So this is where I'm going to do that.

17 days before I leave Congo. 17 days. Ooohhhhhh boy oh baby, what a strange feeling. I feel torn. I certainly feel differently about Canada at this point in my life. I have had so many people express so much interest in Canada since my arrival. Why? Because Canada is never in the news and people don't know anything about it. The CBC is not among the list of international news stations that we get on satellite at John and Charity's, such as CNN, BBC, and Al Jazeera. So many people have said to me "Canada is a really quiet place. Does anything happen there?" These are Congolese people mostly. Consider their frame of reference; this is a country that's been torn for years by war. Does anything happen in Canada? Well, relative to Congo, I guess no. But I'm actually really ok with that. I feel grateful for that. I feel so fortunate to know that I am going back to a place where nothing happens. And particularly Winnipeg. I mean really. But on the other hand, I feel like there is an increasing weight on my presence here, as though I am being pulled down in place. As though something in me is trying to take root here in Congo. There is so much to do here. So much work. So much need. So much life that's begging to be lived. During the past week people have begun to ask me whether I am looking forward to returning home. I kind of waver when people ask that question. My response is something along the lines of "eeehhhhhmmm..." to which people will say "but it's your home! Won't you be glad to be home? Don't you miss it?" and I've figured out the perfect response. "Canada will always be there, but I will not always be in Congo." That pretty much sums up how I feel about going home at the moment. It's not quite an answer that indicates clearly whether I am looking forward to home, but it's all I've got right now.

I've been back at Kulungus' for just over a week now, resuming the activities and projects I had been working on when I first arrived. We finally got power back yesterday evening after eight days with no electricity. Candles for light and coals for cooking. It's a bit like camping, actually, except that we're in the middle of a city with a population of 12 million +. Back at UC Kin and at Papa Pascal's centre, things have been a little slow. The general atmosphere has felt something along the lines of "Oh, you're back. Ok, let's get organized." Lol. That's pretty much how things work around here; no one really gets a sense that things are going to happen until they are already happening. This has to do, in large part, with the fact that more often than not, things end up falling through - particularly with expats - so people have developed the habit of waiting to make preparations until there is proof that things will actually move forward. So, I spent a lot of my time in Papa's office at UC Kin while he worked on various projects and tried hard to get a group of students and teachers together to begin another Peer Mediation session. They had all been informed that we were to begin this week, but because school is out now and because there have been a whole slew of miscommunications and because there are other varying excuses coming from students as to why they are unable to attend on a given morning, I did a lot of sitting around and fiddling with Papa's laptop with an unreliable internet connection and a terrible battery that refuses to stay powered up even when it's plugged into the wall. I must share my fave excuse of the week: Thursday morning, Papa was running around looking for the students who were supposed to be in our classroom at ten o'clock. It wasn't until around noon that Jean Claude came by to let us know that he had spoken with some of the students and they said that they couldn't come to the session in the morning because it was too cold out. It was 27°C. You should have seen people, though. People were really cold. They had goosebumps and were actually wearing winter jackets. Oooohhh, Congo. En tous cas, sitting in his office gave me an opportunity to observe a number of interesting occurrences. Here are the most interesting:

Because Papa is the Financial Administrator for the university, students with issues paying their tuition often come by to explain why and ask for extensions; they're writing exams right now, and many are being chased out of the exam rooms because they haven't paid. So one student this week comes in to see Papa and explains that he can not pay his tuition in full because of varying exchange rates in different parts of the city. He had US dollars but exchanged them for Congolese Francs downtown. To his unfortunate surprise, the exchange rate in Binza Ozone (area of city where UC Kin is located) differs by two francs. So in total he was short about ten thousand francs.

That same day, two students came into Papa's office to advise him that there had been a death. A student of the university, about a year ago, got his girlfriend pregnant. The child was born albino. This student was so unhappy about his son's physical state that he poisoned the child's milk. The child died. I haven't heard any updates about this since.

The following day, students were waiting to write an exam but no one showed up with the exams for them to write. After they had waited a while, they started to get restless. The longer they waited, the more heated they became, until finally about 45 minutes after they should have begun writing their exam I heard a whole bunch of yelling somewhere close to me on campus. It went on for about twenty minutes and then began to die down. I found out later that day that what had happened was that the Dean of the faculty of Theology had not communicated with the prof of this class when and where the exam was scheduled. The students got angry and started calling all of the staff who happened to pass by them voleurs, stealers of their tuition money. !!! Someone had the sense to come and find Pascal and ask him to diffuse the situation as he is the peacemaker on campus. Ohhhh, Congo.

This is life. Keep your eyes open if you want to live it.

It turns out after all that there will be no Peer Mediation course. Couldn't manage to get a group of students to give up their vacation time to participate in a course. Go figure. I'll be spending the time I would have been following the course trying to track down publishers and get permission to translate a bunch of nonviolence literature for Pascal to use in his conflict resolution course for his centre. If I can, that could certainly take up the rest of my time. I am also babysitting two darling yellow labs during the next two weekends for a friend of John and Char's who lives at TASOK and is in the States on holidays. They're adorable. Whiny as hell, but great nonetheless. In addition, Pascal would like me to facilitate my workshop one more time here at UC Kin... oh wait a minute, I haven't even blogged about my workshops yet!! Oh man. So much has happened that I haven't blogged about. I spent almost two weeks in the middle of the bush, facilitated a conflict resolution workshop that my close friend Jessie and I wrote TWICE, made two new friends, and met Todd Howland, the Director of the Joint Office on Human Rights for the UN High Commissioner for Human Rights and the head of the UN Peacekeeping Mission in Congo (MONUC). He has offered to let me interview him before I leave. Yeesh I have a lot to catch you all up on!

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Esengo - Partie II




On Friday morning, I made a new friend. This is me with Dieu Merçi, "Thanks to God" in French, and Dieume for short. He is two. Dieume is a neighbour's little one who spends more time with the Mandefus than he does at his own home. Until Friday morning, he was so afraid of me - the first mondele he had ever seen - that he wouldn't even go near the house. This quickly became the running joke of the whole building. People kept trying to bring him into the house, but every time he saw me he'd run away screaming and crying. And then we'd all laugh.



So Friday morning, his mother had had enough. She brought him down to see me, and when he started crying and pulling away from the door she scooped him up and said "Stop! You will say hello to the maman" (have you ever tried to reckon with a Congolese woman?). This abruptly stopped his tantrum and she carried him over to me. I said bonjour, and he very poutily said BONJOUR! I said comment ça vas? He looked down and, totally unimpressed with meing forced to greet me, said CA VAS BIEN! When I held out my hand to him, the panic began to set in again and he started pulling away. One short 'eeh!' from his mother nipped that in the bud, and he let me shake his hand. Well. That was it. We were best friends from that moment on, and I became Yaya Megan (the Lingala word for big sister).



I really did become like and feel like a big sister to all of those kids; Elie, Debora, Esther, Beni, and Dieume. Even to some of the young orphaned girls and filles-mères. By the end of the weekend I had so many names flying around, from Maman Christianne to Yaya Esengo, that I could very well have forgotten my real name. Just plain old Megan. How dull (just kidding, Dad). Whenever I went out, the kids crowded around me and even sometimes on top of me the minute I returned.



After I got back from my first stay in Maluku, my mom informed me that her friend has put my name forward to speak on a panel next International Women's Day or Week about gender equality in Congo. After having told her about my weekend and experience with the young women the day I left, she and my aunt and uncle and me had a bit of a simultaneous epiphany: what better venue to give these girls and women a voice? Les Mamans agreed. So Friday night a group of eighteen young girls and women, some of the ALFEMADEC women, Papa Benjamin (to translate from Lingala to French for me) and I gathered under the tree to begin recording these women's lives. Over the course of the weekend I spoke with 28 women - not even an eighth of the women of Maluku who are living in desparity. Here are a few of them.



Fina Caidor is an orphan. She is 19 years old and has never gone to school. She is not married. Fina can sew, and makes a bit of an income as a seamstress, but doesn't own a sewing machine or have any material to work with. She is currently living with Maman Martine, as she has no means to support herself. She wants very much to go to school and learn to read and write.





Matondo is a mother. She is 19 and her father has passed away. She had to quit school when she was 14 because her family couldn't afford her school fees. Her older brothers kicked her out of the house soon after, telling her that she was useless and 'may as well just go and get pregnant.' Her husband left her a week after their son was born and she doesn't know where he is. His family refuses to speak with her. Matondo has no job and few employable skills. She wants to study so that she can raise her son and take care of her mother.



Bubala Pembe Mubaya is 36 and a mother of three (unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a picture of her). She has also taken in her younger sister's son. None of her children, between the ages of four and twelve, are in school because she has no means to pay their tuition. Her husband abandoned her only a couple of years ago. Bubala works in the fields and the forest collecting produce to sell in the market to feed and clothe her children, but this is not nearly adequate. She would very much like to be a seamstress because it pays much better, but she has no sewing machine or any of the other materials necessary.



How can I leave this place? By Monday, Matondo and Fina had also begun calling me yaya. They were so sweet. Shy as all get out, but sweet nonetheless. They begun sitting next to me, smiling at me; Matondo even began passing me her son whenever we were together. Maman Martine's daughter Natalie braided my hair. The ALFEMADEC women began giving me gifts. Maman Martine had some material of hers sewn into a Congolese outfit for me. Maman Yvete sent me home with an entire regime of plantains because I like fried makemba so much. And the afternoon I left, Maman Eugenie sent me off with money. She gave me money. 5000 Congolese francs. It was later explained to me that this is a regular practice for communities when their children who are students come home to visit. They understand that students are broke, and will generally collect a sum of money to send them off with so that they can pick up something they need; food, shoes, clothing, school supplies. These women with barely any means at all sent me, their student daughter, away with 5000 francs to buy myself something I need.



This was the point at which I lost it.



I burst into tears again! They all said stop, don't cry, this isn't a sad time (as their eyes filled with tears) and turned me around and sent me down the hill to where the driver was waiting to take me back to Kin. Loading me into the truck turned into a big sob fest. Everyone from my host family was there to send me off, as well as half of the neighbourhood who had begun to gather around to find out why the mondele was crying. Shit, I'm tearing up just thinking about it. They took me into their homes and shared their lives with me. They gave me a Congolese name. They called me their niece, their daughter, their sister, their mother. My family here in Congo.



Tell me, how can I leave this place?



I want to build them a school - free education with child care. I want to build them decent housing with plumbing and electricity. I want to publish their stories - not for resale, just for them. I want to learn from them and grow with them. I want to laugh with them. My family here in Congo.


Thursday, June 18, 2009

Esengo - Partie I


In Lingala, Esengo means joy. Esengo is my newest name, given to me by my host mother in Maluku, Maman Yvete. She didn't know this, but Joy is also my mother's middle name.

I got back from my second stay in Maluku on Monday night. I had arrived Thursday morning and immediately left with Maman Yvete to see the other women of ALFEMADEC who were, as always, sitting under their tree in front of Maman Eugenie's apartment building and preparing pondu for the evening meal. Their welcome was warm and different this time. Instead of simply lightly shaking my hand, they slapped it hard and kissed me three times, once on either cheek. This is a greeting I've only seen extended to close family and friends. There was another woman there who I had only met once briefly during my first stay whom I greeted last. After the kisses, she said in Lingala the equivalent of 'ah, yes, we accept you.' What a feeling.

Thursday afternoon we went back down to Maess, the community in which we had distributed the Vitamin A. We went to one of the homes of a group of young mothers ALFEMADEC works with, along with four other young girls from Mongengenge (the community where the ALFEM women live) to make chikwangue. Like fufu, chikwangue is a dish made with manioc flour eaten with almost every meal along with pondu. Either fufu or chikwangue comprise up to 80% of many people's daily caloric intake.



We all gathered under a tree in the yard - where so many women's activities take place - and mixed and kneaded the flour with water, rolled it into portions, then wrapped it in leaves and string to boil in a big pot over an open fire. This is me attempting to tie the string. We all had a big laugh at my expense. Good times had by all.

Thursday evening, my host father Papa Benjamin and Maman Yvete took me to a friend's home to sit with her awhile and have her explain her work to me. She is one of the ALFEM mamans and, as so many women do, serves her community by preparing food. Five to six days a week she prepares a lunch of fish, fufu or chikwangue, and pondu for a couple hundred employees at a local factory. She begins to prepare the following day's meal around six every evening - after she's fed her own family - and finishes for the night around ten or eleven. The following morning she's usually up at 3:30 to begin thawing the fish frozen the previous night and cooking the pondu and manioc dish (that's right- the previous night's four or five hours of work was simply reading the food to be cooked). She leaves the house by 6:30, drops the lunch off at the factory and returns no later than 7:30 to buy the breakfast of white bread for her family and send them off to work and school. Then she cleans the house and does the washing, and by around noon begins preparing her family's evening meal. At six that evening she starts all over again.


We sat with her a while and talked while she worked, and when she took a break we filed into the living room to sit with her husband. He bought us some beer - in Maluku people were constantly buying me beer, even at 11 in the morning; it's quite the treat at 1,500 to 2,500 francs a pop - and he impressed me with his English language skills. We laughed at most of my Lingala and they began asking me how my experience of Congo has been so far. This is a question that I'm asked often. "How do you find my country?" It's a question that I have a difficult time answering concisely.


How do I "find" Congo?


I find it fascinating, too marvelous to understand. My head is constantly spinning and my senses are always on overdrive; almost as though they are being assaulted, but not in a bad way. Congolese people are so friendly and hospitable and eager to both teach and learn from me (although I still can't imagine what I could possibly have to teach them, other than the fact that in Canada it gets colder than their freezers). Jusgt sitting in the presence of the women of Maluku, not speaking but just listening to their busy Lingala chatter and lively expressions, I've developed new understandings of the world as others experience it that will take me years to process to the point of articulation. This country's desparity and beauty is embodied in its people's every breath. It is rough, rugged, and raw. It is astoundingly honest and humble. It is mind-bogglingly complex. I love this country.


That's not what I said. Hehe.


I just tell people that I love it and it's hot and formidable. Then they laugh, and then I laugh, and they say ça vas, merçi, and I say ça vas, merçi. But people are always laughing at me, and I have nothing to do but laugh along. Have I ever learned to laugh at myself! I think my last Facebook status update was something to the tune of 'Megan has had enough embarrassing, character building moments in the past six weeks to build a whole new personality.' And that is why they named me Esengo last Thursday night. They said that my presence and my laughter have brought joy to their community. So of course I started beaming and choking back tears. Then they started laughing, and I started laughing. And then I told them that Joy is my mother's second name, and they exclaimed their surprise and said that it was meant to be, and I smiled and laughed, and they smiled and laughed.

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Papa Kulungu le vieux

Papa Pascal's father passed away this past Saturday at the age of 89. Papa Pascal is in the States with his sons, as mentioned, and was unable to bury his father today with the rest of his family (as a five-week trip to the U.S. is an extremely rare occasion and not one that would likely be cut short).

Please send Papa Pascal and his family your warm thoughts and prayers.

Thanks.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Maman Christianna

Hahaha. This needs no translation.

Here in Congo I have many names. Among them are Megaa, Meganne, Mademoiselle Megan, Maman Meganne, and the latest but certainly not least: Maman Christianna.

My program here has taken a bit of a turn. Papa Pascal left two weeks ago now for a five-week trip to the States to celebrate his oldest son's graduation and spend time with his two other sons as well. As such, he, John and Charity, and I decided that it would be best if I spend the time he is away focusing on some other interesting and exciting opportunities that are available to me here. The biggest and baddest is the opportunity to spend some time in Maluku, one of Kinshasa's 24 districts, with a women's NGO called ALFEMADEC - Alliance des Femmes de Maluku pour Développement Communautaire (Alliance of the Women of Maluku for Community Development). Maluku, about 90 km outside the main city, is a small but spectacular paradise surrounded by the Congo River. For about five years, the rebel army of Jean Pierre Mbemba (now on trial in The Hague for war crimes and crimes against humanity) terrorized the community. Mbemba was, believe it or not, also one of the candidates in the 2006 presidential elections here. After Kabila won (twice, I might add) there ended up being a showdown between the Congolese armed forces and Mbemba's army, in which the Congolese army also took part in the pillaging.

I imagine that by now, you all have heard reports of the use of rape as a tool of war in DRC. The women who founded ALFEMADEC - the mothers of ALFEMADEC - did so in an effort to try and serve the needs of the hundreds of filles-mères (young girls in their teens - children, really - who've ended up mothers) in Maluku; many of whom were raped, most of whom are orphans, and a great number of whom have been abandoned by their families or remaining family members. Most of the girls have never even set foot in a school. The mothers do everything they can for these girls, from teaching them literacy and re-literacy, to giving parenting and physical hygiene courses, to teaching them how to sew and cook in order to give them some means to support themselves. And I have been given the privilege and the honour of their time.

I have so much to learn. Twice yesterday, and in two completely different contexts, I heard two different people refer to how in the West we say 'time is money.' They were trying to illustrate the difference between the ways in which we all perceive time. In the West, we're ten steps ahead of ourselves all the time and can never believe how quickly time flies. Here, not so much. Here, people around me aren't in a terrible rush to get from one place to another because things just take time. Need to make it from one point of the city to another? Leave an hour early so that you're only half an hour late. With no landlines, everyone is on pay-as-you-go cellular. But running out of credits on your phone is no need not to call before you drop in - and with such importance placed on hospitality, not to receive a guest would be terribly disrespectful. And this goes both for homes and places of business to, of course, an extent in the public realm... although the private realm can't be defined in the same way here as in the West either... I digress. En tous cas, the clock goes full circle every 24 hours everywhere in the world, but each hour lasts a different amount of time depending on where in the world you are. Because I am here for such a short period of time, I had in mind that I would be spending a couple days per week for a couple of weeks with ALFEM and the young women they work with observing their activities, training sessions, and various conflicts that they run into both on a daily and on a long-term basis. It would be a period that they would dedicate a little bit of concentrated time to and I would kind of move on to a new project. Hah.

I headed out Wednesday morning and spent three nights in this community in which a great number of children saw a white person for the first time in their lives upon my arrival. 'Mondele! Mondele!' is still ringing in my ears. I mean, I hear it all over the city, but in Maluku it reached epic proportions. And here, there is nothing inappropriate about staring. Some people literally dropped things when they saw me. In the middle of a market on Friday, within about two minutes I was surrounded by at least thirty girls and women chattering at me in Lingala, giggling and laughing, touching my hair, skin, clothes, and asking me to give them my earrings, bracelet, and even the piercings in my face, just as a souvenier. This district is like a little town that is so isolated from the rest of the bustling city. I spent most of my time just doing relationship building with the women. I went from Mademoiselle Megan to Christianne (and eventually Christianna) within about two hours because people have such a hard time pronouncing my first name but have a much easier time with Christine, my second. The one time it was mentioned last weekend - just in passing - it caught on like wild fire and along the line ended up transformed into Christianna. We prepared food together (food preparation honestly takes up about half of these women's days) in a communal spot where we made huge batches of various dishes, and then each woman took her share home to feed her family. They taught me how to pick manioc leaves and snap them off the stems properly to prepare pondu, the dish they make by grinding them up with garlic and pili-pili (a super-spicy pepper that they eat with everything), and showed me how to prepare maboke, the best steamed fish, prepared fresh the day it is bought, you have ever tasted in your life. They soaked up every little bit of information I could think to give them every time I observed a cultural difference.

There is no way that I can swoop in there and have an organized curriculum or schedule each day. They haven't organized themselves that way. Life isn't organized that way. We just don't allot fifteen-minute slots to each activity in our daytimers. We don't have daytimers. Silly Megan.

Because helping ALFEMADEC is a 4C (John and Charity's NGO) initiative, the administrative committee made the introductions last weekend for the work to begin, and this weekend came out to pick me up and meet with the women to see how things were coming along. The mothers gathered about fifteen of the filles-mères together as well, many of whom came with their children, and we all sat together in a meeting room that I believe was something of a school room as well. The mothers sat together along one wall, the 4C members at the front of the room, and I was given the honour of sitting amongst the young women of the community. All formalities of speech taken; first my my uncle, president of 4C, then the mothers, they asked me to say a few words about how the past few days had gone and what I envisioned in the weeks to come.

Instead, I burst into tears.

I was completely overcome with such a profound gratitude and sense of awe at their strength, their beauty, their struggle... and how willing they were to take this clueless mondele under their wings and treat her as a sister, a mother, a daughter. I stammered out my thanks to them in between sobs and desperately trying to get it under control, I sat down feeling a little dizzy and sorely inadequate.

Then something incredible happened.

One by one, the young orphans and filles-mères began to get up and come to the front of the room to address the 4C committee and tell their stories. In my flood of emotion, I opened the floor to the girls to use their voices and open their hearts to us. Four girls got up and in brief and in tears explained to us their hardships and dilemmas and the injustice in their lives. It was so powerful! I just can't find the right words here to articulate to you the force in the room. One of the girls who was sitting right next to me was one of the girls who got up, and when she sat down we exchanged a look that said 'thank you.' I wanted so badly to take her hand and just hold it, but I didn't for fear it might be inappropriate. But we shared something in that brief few minutes we were all in the room together.

On the way out I was given a message for my mother. I walked out in tears, on the brink of losing it, and les Mamans followed us out and took hold of me. They asked me not to cry, because it was bringing them to tears as well, and then Maman la Présidente (of ALFEMADEC) Eugénie said to me 'nous sommes tes mères, Maman Christianna, nous sommes tes mères ici, et tu es notre fièrté. Il faut dire à ta mère là bas au Canada que nous sommes tes mères et nous te gardons et protègons' - 'we are your mothers, Maman Christianna, we are your mothers here and you are our pride. You have to tell your mother in Canada that we are your mothers and we are keeping you and protecting you.' And this is supposed to make me stop crying.

I am going back on Thursday.